Oct 4, 2011

My Public Service to All Coming to Brunei

If you were to take a look at a map of Southeast Asia, it would be fairly easy to miss the country of Brunei. Located in the South China Sea in the vast Borneo Island, it is but only two tiny slivers of land lodged in the northern coast of Sarawak. This country is not only small in land mass but also in population with only 400,000 currently. However what really distinguishes this country amongst its neighbors is that it's main source of income is derived not from tourism but from oil and gas. In 1929, right when the country was about to be swallowed, the sultan found oil in the city of Seria. Since then, the country has been more like its fellow countrymen in the middle east than any other countries surrounding it in Southeast Asia! It is precisely this reason why I had decided to make a stopover in this unique country.
Upon arrival it was hard not to notice the initial contrast to Malaysia and Indonesia. Though most of the buildings were more modest and simpler than others typically found in the region, its mosques are some of the most beautiful in the world. The local houses and stores were not quite what one would expect from an oil rich country, yet at the same time far from what was seen in even the nicer cities in Indonesia. Another extreme difference is the shear quietness on the street, even downtown.





As you rarely saw pedestrians and scooters are never used, walking down the streets felt more like being in the states, with the exception of the drivers being friendlier and actually stopping to allow you to pass. Being a predominant Muslim country, the laws are fairly strict and this is the first truly dry country I've visited, where even beer is not available. Aside from that, the hours of operations seems pretty lax making it difficult to get many things done.
As for attractions, the country has really only two worth visiting. The first being the Jame' Asri Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah mosque, the largest in the country built to commemorate the current reigning Sultan.





From the outside this magnificent building looks more like a palace than a mosque, with its surrounding palm trees and fountains. As per Islamic rules photos are not to be taken inside, which is equally grand with its numerous chandeliers and mosaic windows. However the guard there did take me on a private tour where we climbed to the top of one of its towers and was greeted with an amazing view of the mosque and a panoramic view of the city.





The other attraction of the country is not surprising also a mosque called the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque...





If one was to google Brunei this much photoed landmark would be the first to come up. This mosque though simpler on the inside reminds me of the palace in Walt Disney's Aladdin! Before you are granted entrance, woman must cover up everything which they will provide you with the essential.





Aside from these two, the sultan's palace is also located in the capitol, and is about 3x the size of Versailles and 8x the size of Buckingham. Unfortunately the only thing visible to tourists are the shiny gates that stretch out for blocks, and acres and acres of greens and palm trees behind them. Seems like the country spared no expenses when it came to the building of the palace and mosques, but cut back on housing for it's citizens. However life in this country still seems fairly pleasant as food and local transportation costs are minimal and safety is never really an issue here.

Now for all those that plan on visiting this country by backpacking, there is really limited tourist information available even once you land so hopefully the information below will be helpful. First I must say there really isn't a lot to see so 2 days is more than enough. Also if you are the type that wishes to drink and party on your trips, this is not the place for you and you might as well just skip it! For all the others, I'm sure by now you have realized by searching the web that cheap lodging is extremely limited. It is true that if don't want to pay for a hotel, your only option is the youth hostel otherwise known as Pusat Belia, which is only 10B a night. Here you will be provided with really nothing more than a bed and bathroom, so don't be expecting a common room or Internet! Also the male and female dorms are completely separate so don't even consider sharing a room.





The location of the hostel is right in the middle of downtown, where you will also find the remaining four or five hotels the city offers. Fortunately most locals speak some English, enough for you to easily find this place. Also if you are coming from the airport DO NOT take a taxi as that will cost you 25B. Instead wait for the purple bus #38 which is only 1B and you will ride it to the terminal, from there it is merely a few blocks' walk to the hostel! Also this terminal that you will be dropped off at is their central bus terminal so if you need to go to the mosque or mall you can find a bus there. Now more the more confusing information, how to book the youth hostel! If you had tried to email them but haven't heard back for a while, it's most likely because the guy there works very limited hours. If you are lucky enough to arrive from 6:30am-4:30pm your chances of seeing him is pretty good, however after that the reception desk is closed and you would have to call him for him to come. Below is both the hours and contact number as posted on the window of the office.





Rating:
Atmosphere: Unlike any other in the area, pollution is limited by the lack of scooters and small population. Honking is also rarely heard making the city very quiet at times. Since they are able to live off their oil reserves, the resources of the land has been able to be remained intact. Walking around at night you don't have the least bit of worry that something ill natured might happen.
People: For the most part they were pretty friendly. Seems like they are especially polite to foreigners and seemed eager for you to like their country and embrace their culture.
Food: Very similar to Malay food which is not surprising given its location. I ate roti for both breakfast and dinner with a side of either chicken or beef curry, both of which was tasty. Also they have their version of beef noodle soup which was as good as the ones in China.









Beauty: Despite its paved streets and luscious greens, I couldn't help but remain unimpressed. Its beauty which is most apparent in their mosques seemed to be the pride of the country, yet how can you spend millions on a mosque when people just across the street from them live in shabby wooden houses built on pillars with barely a window.





Cleanness: The country is extremely clean not only compared to Asian country but to the western ones also. Everywhere you look you can find beautiful plan trees and well maintained lawns. The people don't litter or spit on the floor as is custom in the developing nations nearby.
Overall: Despite it's numerous strength, I found the country dull and uninteresting. Given the extreme limitation of the local law I don't understand how someone can really happily reside there. Perhaps its free healthcare and schooling is enough to entice some. I can truly say that is one country I don't plan on visiting again for sure!

Scale 1-10: 4

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