Ireland - The Emerald Isle

Today was a beautiful sunny day as I drove to Connemera. By noon I arrived at Kylemore Abby, a beautiful gothic style victorian abbey situated by the water. It was built by a man named Mitchell Henry for his wife when they fell in love with the area on their honeymoon. At one point King Edward VII even considered buying it, but reconsidered saying it was too grand for a king!  From afar it looks like something out of a fairy tale, with a beautiful love story of its origin to match. Having even just spent the afternoon there I can see the allure.

A short drive down the road is Lough Inagh, a stunning body of water surrounded by trees with mountains in the back. As the sun poked through the fluffy clouds I rushed to capture the amazing light and in my haste forget to mind the bog.  The next thing I knew I was stuck calf deep in swampy water and it took the next 5mins to pull out my soaked sneaker. Definitely not my best moment, but here's the shot that came out of it. 

The next two days I spent in Clare to see the Cliffs of Moher and was surprised to see a new visitor center recently built. It made access much easier but took away from the thrill of discovering the place. However if you wait and visit after 6pm the crowds have left but you can still park and see the cliffs since that never closes. In fact when I went I had the whole area to myself.

Aside from that, other attractions nearby includes a boat ride to see the cliffs or the nearby Aran islands. I opted for the 1hr cruise around the cliffs which came highly recommended, but turned out to be a waste of time. Not only did the boat literally drive out and back, but there were also no introductions or explanations of what you were looking at, including the famous " Harry Potter Cave". The only interesting thing I saw was a playful dolphin that decided to swim laps under our boat. At least it was sunny, but I don't understand how anyone can recommend this tour and would strongly urge the next person to reconsider. The remainder of the stay was spent soaking up the cultures in pubs, tasting Irish Whiskey and Cider while waiting for the perfect sunset. 

From there I made my way to the Ring of Kerry, a scenic 3.5hr loop that typically starts in Killarney. The route is highly popular with tour buses who must drive counterclockwise due to the narrow roads, so it is recommended you drive clockwise to avoid the crowd. Given time constraints I was only able to do part of the loop and had decided on four stops. At noon I arrived at Torc waterfall in Killarney National Park.  The small waterfall was easily accessible via a 5min walk from the parking lot and very pretty despite its size.

Another 10min drive down brought me to Ladies View, a lookout point to the whole valley. Once out of the park, the next two stops where little towns called Kenmare and Sneem both of which had little to offer. In fact they were so plain and ordinary that if they weren't conveniently located on this circuit they would never be heard of. 

Prior to Dublin I made a stop to Blarney Castle, home of the Blarney rock. The rock is said to bestow eloquent on those that kissed it. However in order to do so requires you to lay on your back and almost hang off the ledge. Luckily there is someone there to assist. The whole process takes no more than 20sec and is pretty much perfected. Though the experience was gimmicky it was still in a way unique.

My last few days of the trip was spent in Dublin, a city I soon found to be vast and soulless.  The city looked rough and beaten up as the streets were dirty and walls were covered with graffiti. Under the grey cloudy sky everything seemed gloomy. As for attractions I decided to start off with the symbol of the city, a tour of the Guinness Storehouse.

Inside the brewery everything ran like clock work. The self guided tour was a hefty €20 but came with a pint of Guinness at the end which many enjoyed in their gravity bar on the top floor. Personally the whole experience was too commercialized for me and way over priced. It wasn't until after final call at 5pm that the gravity bar started to clear out and you finally had room to move. As for the grand view of the city, it really wasn't much to look at aesthetically. Aside from that other sights in the city includes Kilmainham Gaol, the old prison used in the revolution and the Trinity Library, home of the Books of Kells. The gaol was really interesting as you were given the chance to see the actual cells and told a condensed history of Ireland.

The Books of Kells were lost on me given its Catholic significance but the Long Room was the real reason I was there and it did not disappoint. The 213 ft room has a barrel-vaulted ceiling that was redesigned in 1860. On both sides were shelves and shelves of the library's oldest books, along with sculptures of various prominent men in history.

My final day was spent leisurely around city center, in and out of cafes and shops. I did manage to take a quick stroll to Merrion Square, the heart of Georgian Dublin known for its red brick townhouses with colorful doors. It was there I discovered a different side of the city, quiet and elegant. Though today the area is mostly used for commercial purposes, there still lingers an air of the once aristocratic flair.

Rating:

Atmosphere: In general Ireland is a beautiful place, with the countryside especially appealing. However there are 3 things that really stand out, first is the number of pubs around, not just in Dublin but all over. Second is the amount of people that smoke, I can't recall the last time I've seen so many. Lastly is the number of homeless people in Dublin, I guess given its high cost of living, #6 in Europe, that shouldn't be surprising. 

Beauty: The country side was very pretty with its rolling hills, sea cliffs and mountain ranges. In addition because of how condense the country is, you are able to see a lot in a short time. However Dublin was not impressive and definitely not worth a return trip.

Cleanliness: Dublin felt old and dingy. However outside of the city things were much better preserved and maintained.

Food: The best part of Irish food is their breakfast, which consists of sausage, bacon, eggs, tomatoes, mushrooms and baked beans.

On top of all that the Irish butter is so rich and creamy that I can't help but over indulge with my toast. Along the same line, their local ice cream is definitely worth trying.

In terms of local food I tried a few places including Th Brazen Head, the oldest pub in Dublin, the beef stew was mediocre but the atmosphere was great.

People: Surprisingly friendly, even in the city

Last Comment: Overall I preferred Scotland over Ireland. Edinburgh just had more cultural than Dublin and Skye was just the most beautiful place of this whole trip. However weather was definitely better in Ireland, which allowed me to capture spectacular sunset at both Giants Causeway and Cliffs of Moher. In the end I'm glad to have seen both, though I doubt I'll be back to Ireland again.

Scale: 1-10

Countryside: 7

Dublin: 5

Read More

Northern Ireland

After arriving at Dublin I jumped in the rental and made my way up to Giant's Causeway in Northern Ireland. The 3hr drive was pleasant enough though nothing special since I was on the main road. Once there, with the exception of paved roads, I found the area quiet similar to Scotland with its rolling hills and livestock all around. The actual Causeway was hard to describe. On the one hand the formation was quite impressive given its size and height, on the other it was something that you could fully experience in 30mins. In general I'm not sure it was totally worth the drive. However as sunset approached it casted a warm glow on the rocks which soften the roughness. In fact as people started to thin out and you were left with just the sound of the ocean collapsing on the shore, the appeal of the area became undeniable.

The next morning under the sun's warm first light I went to the Dark Hedges. For those that are unfamiliar with the area, it is a hilly street surrounded by gnarly trees so overgrown that they that produce a tunnel like effect. More recently it was made famous by a scene in Game of Thrones like many other locations in the area. The light couldn't have been more perfect as I stood there one of two photographers happily snapping away.

I can't image the place in mid day filled with tourist as I have seen photos of the street just lined with cars completely void of its allure. Before leaving the area I made a final stop to Kinbane Head, a hidden peninsula only visible after descending a few flights of stairs. As with many places around it was almost completely empty, leaving you to enjoy it in solitude.

Rating: 

Atmosphere: I love the openness of the countryside where past sunset there isn't anyone in sight and the whole land falls into a calm surrender. In the morning you wake up to the crisp air and watch as the light begins to bounce off the hills. It is truly peaceful.

Beauty: There is much more Northern Ireland has to offer than Giant's Causeway I've learned. With many castle ruins and dramatic cliffs, I can see why many movies where made there.

Cleanliness: With visitor centers set up at the major sights it was a lot easier to find access to trash cans and facilities than Scotland. And since they were set far from the attractions and the actual attractions themselves never closed, it still felt rustic.

Food: I think I should just give up on expecting good food on this trip. In fact the best meals I've had so far was Chinese and Korean take out. The Irish stew yesterday was boarder line disguising as the gravy was way thick and unappealing with little seasoning.

People: Just as nice as the Scots with accents just slightly easier to understand.

Last comment: I'm glad to have made the trip out and that weather was so pleasant the whole time because I doubt I will be returning anytime soon.

Scale: 7.5

Read More

The Scottish Highlands

Before the next few days in Scotland can be spent touring the picturesque Highlands a quick detour was made to Sterling Castle which is only 50mins outside of Edinburgh.  Prior to the union with England, it was one of the most used Scottish royal residences, both as a palace as well as a fortress. The castle itself sits atop Castle Hill, an intrusive crag, that is part of the Stirling Sill geological formation. Having arrived right when it opened gave me the opportunity to see it empty, a rare and pleasant occurrence that made the experience more enjoyable. 

From there I headed north to Inverness, home of Loch Ness. On its own there is nothing spectacular about the loch, however seeing it from Urquhart Castle you were able to fully appreciate it's grandeur. The remains of the castle is located on top of the hill providing a glimpse of what it looked like in its glory days. 

The next three days brought me to the famous Isle of Skye, where every turn is eye catching and breathtaking as you are surrounded by mountains and beaches with fields of lush green rolling hills in between. Tucked amongst tiny roads are places like the Fairy Glen and Quairing, where if you are lucky enough to see it on a clear sunny day will leave you in awe.

However perhaps the most well known sight is the Old Man of Storr, a giant rock formation in the Storr mountain ranges which have been synonyms with Scotland. To truly appreciate its magnificence requires a 2.5mile hike up before sunrise. What you are rewarded with is a sight indescribable as the mountain range lit up at first light. 

Anything after that had high standards to live up to, so it was understandable when I was slightly underwhelmed by Glencoe, especially since weather didn't cooperate. The mostly cloudy grey sky prevented any chance of seeing the full mountain peaks while the gusty winds meant reflections were unachievable. 

For my final day in Scotland I was based out of Glasgow though I had little interest and intention of actually seeing the city. Instead I made my way to Culzean castle, a beautiful castle perched over the sea, or so I thought.  Upon arrival I was dumbfounded to find how tiny it was. Having imagined it as a miniature version of Versailles or Schönbrunn Palace, this was not even remotely comparable. Just goes to show the power of marketing, I definitely felt fooled. 

Rating:

Atmosphere: Scotland is very unique in the sense that there are no trespassing laws. In fact they have something called "free to roam" which pretty much means that. So in many places you will see campers and tents which gives it a very rustic feel. In fact with the exception of the major cities, all else feels very raw. There are no paved roads or information centers at most of the sights.

Beauty: There is definitely no shortage of photographic opportunities. In fact overall Skye is one of the most beautiful places I've been. 

Cleanliness: Given the lack of facilities including restrooms and waste baskets the area is surprisingly clean. I think most tourist understand the need to take their trash with them while the locals seems very diligent about picking up trash as they see it.

Food: Seafood as you can imagine was abundant on the Isle. At the local Oyster Shack I was able to taste some freshly caught oysters and scallops. While the scallops where average, the oysters were delicious, meaty and salty.

People: I have come to find the Scottish people to be very nice and pleasant as a whole though some have extremely strong accents, making it very difficult to understand. 

Last comments: Having to do it again I would spend all my time in Skye with maybe 1-2 days in Glencoe just to test my luck with the weather. I think the countryside is just so beautiful that it feels like a waste to spend too much time in the cities, which weren't anything special.

Scale: 9

Read More

The Historical City of Edinburgh

My first day in Edinburgh left me slightly disappointed. The city I had so highly anticipated turned out to be a bit of a let down. Instead of a quaint city filled with rich history at first glance it seemed no different than any other place in Europe. I started my day with a walk around Prince St, the shopping district of the city. The stores along the blocks were all names you'd find back home, all mass produced, nothing special. From there a short walk up hill took you to Edinburgh castle, situated at the start of the royal mile. These cobblestones streets was the heart of the city's tourism as stores on both side sold tacky knick knacks, and street performers filled the blocks.  What was unique were these "close" or narrow alleyways that were nested between restaurants and store fronts. Some of the better known ones contained beautiful staircases and passages to courtyards. 

As sunset approached I made my way up to Calton Hill in hopes of capturing the iconic shot of the city. Unfortunately this rare, fairly sunny day produced a lackluster sunset which along with the gusty bone chilling winds made the experience unenjoyable. 

After a late start the next day I found myself again at Edinburgh Castle, though this time for a visit inside. What sets this castle apart from the numerous others in Europe is that it sits on top of an extinct volcano plug. 

The castle itself has played a pivotal role in Scottish history, both as a royal residence and as a military stronghold where up until the 1920s it served as the British army's main base in Scotland. Having said all that, the actual interiors were less impressive than the magnificent views over looking the whole city. The remainder of the afternoon was spent eating mediocre food and relaxing at cafes as the weather teetered between sunny and overcast. It didn't take one long to realize just how compact this city was. By dusk the weather started to look promising as patches of clouds filled the sky. Deciding to give it another go I ventured back up Calton Hill, and was thrilled as the beautiful sunset overlooking the city stretched out in front of me.

The wind however was ever the same relentless, the one thing consistent in Edinburgh. 

My final day in the city was much more relaxing as I spent it leisurely strolling along the Water of Leith before ending at Dean's Village. This charming little village tucked in the northwest part of the city was an absolute gem. Dotted with colorful cottages on both sides of the water the village resembled a sleepy countryside straight out of a fairy tale. A short walk beyond was Circus Lane, one of the most delightful streets I've ever seen and a beautiful ending to remember the city by.

Rating: 

Atmosphere: Old school Europe with some modern flare is how I think best describe it. The neoclassical buildings dotting the skyline of the old town versus the Georgian style of the new town just a few streets apart. What it lacked in sights as most major city do, it made up for it with a unique skyline.

Beauty: By far the most beautiful aspect of the city is the view on top of Calton Hill. Unlike most skylines competing for the tallest skyscrapers this one is defined by famous landmarks such as the Balmoral hotel and ultimately the castle itself.

Food: Knowing that food in Scotland isn't its strong point, I'm not surprised I have yet to find something that was great. Even the famous OINK sandwich which is just roasted pork with various dressing was bland and disappointing. 

The best so far was a creamy seafood chowder with smoked salmon. In addition I have yet to work up the courage to try haggis.

Cleanliness: Like most European cities it is so much cleaner than ones in the states. In addition there are little to no graffiti which well preserves the appeal.

People: The Scottish people are pretty friendly and willing to help if you seem lost. Even a big city like Edinburgh didn't seem pretentious which is a rarity.

Last Comment: At the end of the day it was a city well worth a visit. However 2 days is more than enough to see the main attractions. As for the infamous Scottish weather, well that bit is absolutely true so always bring waterproof layers and don't forget the hats and scarves.

Scale: 6.5

Read More