Jul 4, 2016

36 Hours in Montreal

This year's July 4th fell on a Monday and as I sat pondering how to spend this rare long weekend the idea of Montreal popped into my head. This city is unique in that it  provides a "European feel" while still being relatively close to home. The drive up is around 7hrs which was do-able. In addition, with the weaker Canadian dollar everything just became more affordable. It seemed like there was no better time but the present to go.
Upon arriving in the city our first stop was to the famous Schwartz smoked deli, whose speciality is their smoked brisket sandwich served on rye with mustard. The texture and consistency of the meat was perfect, tender without losing substance with a good mix of lean and fat. However the flavor was slightly disappointing, as it tasted boarder line bland.

Overall not a bad sandwich but not sure it was worthy of the hype. From there we visited Notre-Dame Basilica, situated at the heart of Place d'Armes. From the exterior this church seemed basic, not overly elaborate nor big, as its size was merely half of the one in Paris.  However the Gothic architect inside was beautiful as the lights entered from the windows and bounced off the various arches and pitched roof.  
A few streets away was old town, a cluster of streets just off the old port paved with cobblestone walkways that resembles much of Europe. These days it is nothing more than a tourist trap, filled with restaurants, souvenir shops and street vendors selling tacky t-shirts and shot glasses.
The next morning we started the day with a local staple, poutines at La Banquise. The classic version of this french fries dish is topped with a thick gravy sauce and sprinkled with curds, we took it one step further and added smoked meat. The dish was rich and delicious, each bite the perfect blend of creamy umami goodness, a pure indulgence. Along with it I got a Montreal burger, which was only a burger in name. Instead of a patty it was served with smoked meat and a pickle. It was interesting but I still prefer my burgers with beef. To work off the meal we headed towards Park Mont Royal. From the top, this 200 hectares park situated on the mountain provides a complete view of downtown Montreal. Though the skyline wasn't the most impressive, on a clear day it was still a nice visit.
Our final stop of the day was the botanical garden, a highly recommended oasis in the middle of the city next to the Olympic stadium. This garden is considered one of the greatest botanical gardens in the world and it didn't take long to see why. Across the 75 hectares there are more than 20 thematic gardens including the Japanese Garden, Alpine Garden and my favorite the Rose Garden just to name a few. Laying by the pond for an afternoon break it was the perfect way to end in Montreal.

Rating:

Atmosphere: I was under the misunderstanding that the city used both English and French equally. So imagine my surprise when all the signs and public announcements were only in French. What was even more unexpected was how many people didn't speak English. Aside from that the city felt no different than those in the states.

Beauty: My favorite streets in the city was around Parc La Fontaine in Plateau Mont Royal. Lining the streets of this quaint neighborhood were rows of houses with colorful windows and twirling iron staircases. Some were architecturally stunning while others built like a children's castle were distasteful.
 

Cleanliness: For an older city the subways were still relatively well maintained though paled in comparison to anything found in Asia. Many stations were not handicap and stroller equipped, which could be a challenge giving the length of some escalators. The actual streets were really well kept. Unlike most larger cities the graffiti didn't trashed the city but instead were artfully done and placed, adding an layer of style to the metropolitan. 

Food: My favorite dish was the poutine though only in small doses given how heavy it is. Overall the city's food is strongly French influenced but not drenched in as much cream and butter. 

People: It is often said that Canadians are friendlier however in general I didn't feel like that was the case here. In fact most people came off indifferent. 

Last comment: This trip was perfect for a long weekend just enough to see and taste the highlights of the city. As a whole it was much more enjoyable than Toronto and a nice break from the typical holiday crowds. 

Scale 1-10: 6.5