Mar 25, 2018

A few days down south - Charleston & Savannah

Lucky enough to escape the latest Nor'easter I spent the last few days down south in Charleston. Since I had to be there for a photo retreat, it presented the perfect opportunity to see this Southern Belle. My first morning I drove to Edisto Island, home of the famous Botany Bay Beach. This is where you often see pictures of the dead trees on the beach. I was lucky enough to get there after the gate opened which is about 30min before sunrise and saved myself an hour of walk time. However it still provided challenging to find the perfect composition in such a short time as the sky was already turning pink. The shot below I managed to snag, rushing against time. (more images can be seen at www.LNXphotography.com)
Nearby is Botany Bay Rd, a very picturesque street lined with Spanish Moss. As the morning sun peaked through, it lit up the trees with a warm soft glow and made the road very inviting. In the afternoon I headed to downtown Charleston and took a stroll around Rainbow Row. The Georgian style houses pared with beautiful Azalea was your stereotypical image of the south. However I was both surprised and disappointed to find upon further digging that those were the highlight of the city. A late lunch brought me to Lewis BBQ as I thought I owed it to myself to try it given its reputation as the best in the city. The sample platter of pulled pork, brisket and cole slaw was good though not exceptional, and overall I remain luke warm on BBQ as a whole.
Over the next few days during the photography retreat I had the opportunity to visit both Middleton and Magnolia Plantation. As a first impressions both were beautiful as the iconic Spanish Moss trees draped over the vivid Azaleas. Upon further exploration it was clear that Middleton's landscape was more spread out while Magnolia's more intimate. Both were absolutely stunning to photograph and presented a charming view of the south.
The last two days of the trip brought me further south to Savannah. Upon arriving in the Historic District it was obvious of the city's draw. The neatly laid out city blocks surrounds 22 squares, providing a little greenery amid all the businesses and historic houses. In addition there is also the famous Forsyth Park, the symbol of the city.
A few blocks down is River St, once lined with cotton warehouses now converted to restaurants, boutiques and inns. It is here you can take a riverboat cruise on the Georgia Queen, a stroll through the old cobblestone walkways and alleys, or simply finish the day admiring the beautiful sunset.

Rating:
Atmosphere: Sunny, laid back and beautiful, what more is there to say!
Food: There were a handful of great dishes on this trip including the best brisket sandwich from Swig and Swine.
I think they must butter the potato bun before toasting. Right next door is the Glass Onion, another great establishment where the fried quail with rice and collards were delicious.
In Savannah my favorite was the Seafood Shack, where the steamed clam boil was tender and well seasoned.
On the contrary the crawfish at Bayou Cafe tasted like it was soaked in salt water and drenched in Old Bay, simply horrible. No trip to Savannah is complete without a stop to Leopold's Ice Cream where at any time of day there is a line outside. The ice cream was rich yet not overly sweet, good but not better than a gelato.
However hands down by far the best meal of the trip had to go to Mrs.Wilkes in Savannah. Mrs.Wilkes is a very well known establishment, so much so that there is always a line to get in by 10:15am though they don't open until 11. The meals are served family style as well as seating, which pretty much means you are having lunch with strangers. There are around 22 dishes served at once and you are free to eat as much or little of each. The day I was there, they were serving up fried chicken, which was so moist and juicy. In addition the corn bread and collards were the best I've ever had. It was totally worth the wait and I would recommend it to anyone visiting the area.

Beauty: Spring time down south was quite stunning. The Spanish Moss trees that draped the city streets added character to the city and provided a feel of serenity when walking through the parks. The gardens of the plantations drenched in the late afternoon sun made for a great canvas, and as a landscape photographer there was a shot to be had at every turn.
People: Southerners are know for their manners and hospitalities, and when they answer everything with yes ma'am it just projects a different tone. Growing up in the North it definitely took some getting used to.
Cleanliness: Given the historical nature of these cities it does not come at a surprised to see how well preserved they are. The streets are clean, litter and graffati free.
Last Comments: The last week was a real treat and a great break from the never ending winter we're having in Philly. Having always seen the moss trees in pictures I was very anxious to see them in person. It wasn't until I drove around that I realized just how abundant they really were, though that didn't detract from it's charm.
Scale: 1-10 Charleston: 6.5 Savannah: 7