Paro and its famous Tiger's Nest

What trip to Bhutan is finished without seeing the amazing Taktsang Palphug Monastery also known as Tiger's Nest. Located on the edge of a cliff in Paro valley 3,120 meters up, the journey takes about 2-2.5 hrs to reach by foot and is one of the most important temple in Buddhism. According to legend it is said that the Guru Rinpoche flown here on the back of a tigress. He then proceeded to meditated in a cave for three months and emerged in eight incarnated forms. The original monastery was built in 1692, however in 1998 it suffered a devastating fire of unknown origin. Speculation is that the fire was caused either by incenses or an overturned butter lamp. Everything was destroyed except the statue of the second buddha. Reconstruction was completed in 2005 based upon old photographs and diaries, though there was little documentation of the wall paintings and other artwork housed inside. The trail itself is pretty manageable and offered very scenic views of the pine forrest and the valley below. At the first rest stop where the monastery was visible for the first time, the sight was truly incredible. Just when you felt like you were never going to reach the end, you were rewarded with the most breathtaking view of them all directly across the monastery. From there it was a mere 20mins away. However due to my vertigo I had apprehensions about this last leg of the path which consisted of 900 steps up and down the side of the cliff. Luckily railings has been recently added due to a fatal accident with a Japanese tourist a few years back.


However it really wasn't bad at all, in fact once I reached that part I hardly noticed the height. Perhaps it was my fatigue or just the anxiousness of finally seeing the monastery. Inside photography was not allowed due to the sacred nature of the complex itself. There are a total of eight temples with four being easy to access. All the temples are connected by stairs built into the rocks. There are also balconies which provides beautiful views of Paro below. Aside from Tiger's Nest, Paro's Rinpung Dzong is also worth a visit. Built from stone instead of clay, this dzong is smaller in size with only two courtyards. Once inside it offers a panoramic view of the city. In the late afternoon the valley sparkles as the sun hits the rooftops.


In the land of many temples and dzongs what better way to conclude our Bhutan trip than to visit one last temple. Kyichu Lhakhang is one of the oldest temple in the country built in the 7th century. Built by the Tibetan Emperor Songsten Gampo, it is considered to be one of the 108 border taming temples he built. However like many buildings it was also burnt down and rebuilt. There has also been many extensions with the latest done in 1965.


Rating:
Atmosphere: Small roads, rice patty fields and houses with stones to hold down the roof, that is the essence of Paro. Though that may not sound like much, the town instead feels immensely rich due to their faith and culture. Watching the sun disappear over the mountains for a brief second I felt content.


Beauty: I'll be the first to admit I don't find any pleasure in trekking. Instead I much prefer to be driven up. However in cases like this when walking or horse back are the only options I will gladly do it. Not for the satisfaction of the walk itself but for that absolutely spectacular view at the end, which definitely did not disappoint!


Cleanliness: It surprises me how a 3rd world country can be so clean. People here actually follows the rules and use the trash basket, how refreshing.
Food: Still yet to try authentic Bhutanese food, which based on what the guides said are not what we have been served. Apparently Bhutanese people don't actually drink soup or use utensils, I feel cheated!
People: Friendly like the previous cities. Also the guys don't stare at you or make rude comments! Nor do they try to talk to you in an inappropriate manner!
Comments: Bhutan has been a treat at the end of this trip. I was a little bummed Tibet fell through, but I couldn't have asked for a better alternative!

Scale: 1-10 = 8

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The Old Capital - Phunaka

On route to Phunaka on a clear sunny day you are rewarded with one of the most spectacular views of the Himalaya. Since the country has one road in and out of Thimphu in order to travel to Phunaka you will pass by the famous Dochula Pass. It is there where you will find the Druk Wangyal Khangzang, a cluster of 108 stupa built in a circle that spirals up to one big stupa in the middle. It was a tribute to the selfless service and visionary leadership of the 4th King, and is now a sacred legacy to the nation and its people.


Aside from the beauty of the stupas itself, it is also situated on a mound that yields a breathtaking view of the snow capped Himalayan mountain peaks in the background. As the white clouds drifts across and the sun shined through the view was truly beyond words. Around the stupa are numerous prayer flags that people place to have their prayers spread by the winds.


Once in Phunaka we visited the famous Dzong which is the second oldest and second largest dzong in Bhutan. This beautiful Dzong is used for all important ceremonies of the country including the 5th king's coronation and wedding. It stands at a total of six-stories tall with a central tower and a scenic mountainous background. Surrounded by Pho Chu and Mo Chu the two rivers meets together at the dzong with one bridge that links it to the nearby town.





Inside, the buildings are again divided half for administration and half for religion. The first courtyard consisted of mainly administrative offices along with a Bodhi Tree. while the second courtyard is reserved for the residence of the monks. The third and final courtyard contains the chapel which was used for the royal ceremonies and was impressive in both size and beauty. In addition, next door lays the remains of Pema Lingpa and Zhanbdrung Ngawang Namgyal which is accessible only by the king and the senior religious leader.


The next morning we started the day with a trek through the local village to see Chimi Lhakhang, otherwise known as The Temple of Fertility. It is often believed that couples who has been having problems conceiving, if they pray and sleep at this temple they will be blessed with a child.


The trail through the fields to the temple takes about 45mins where on the way you see the locals at work. The view once on top of the hill yields the whole valley below and is one of the most serene and peaceful sights around.


Rating:
Atmosphere: Unlike Thimphu which is considered busy for Bhutan's standards, Phunaka and its surrounding towns are extremely calm. At night after sunset everything is still and the only sounds to be heard is the wind and rain hitting the windows.
Beauty: I have come to realize that Dzongs are all relatively the same on the inside. What differentiates them is the location and setting. The one in Phunaka for example is exceptionally beautiful since it sits perched on a hill, surrounded by the rivers.
Cleanliness: Like Thimphu, Phunaka's roads are also pretty clean. The air on the mountain was so fresh and clean I wondered how I was going to go back to Nepal!
Food: For the most part food has not been the highlight of this trip. Not to say that it wasn't good, it just wasn't special. Though the tour guide did say that traditional Bhutanese food is very spicy it however has been tamed down for the tourists. Another aspect of their food I found extremely interesting is the use of cheese in mixed vegetable dishes. The result is almost like the US version of cheese and broccoli and equally not good.
People: I find the people extremely nice and innocent. Not sure if it's the culture or their limited interactions with foreigners. Either way they have definitely added to the wonder experience and it also speaks a lot of the country.
Comment: Though Phunaka was much smaller than I'd expect spending one night in the area was nice. The highlight of the area is definitely the view of the mountain ranges and should definitely be a priority to see. If possible have lunch nearby, there is one restaurant just down the road from the 108 stupas, the food was ok but the view was worth the trip.

Scale 1-10 = 7.5

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Land of the Thunder Dragon: Bhutan (Thimphu)

When I think of Bhutan my mind draws a blank. Aside from knowing that the country is extremely controlled for tourism I have to admit there not much more I can say. Nested between Nepal, India and China, this tiny country is often thought of as a mystery by many. With a population of only 700,000, the country is perhaps one of the last true Shangri-La remaining. Flights from Kathmandu to Paro runs once a day, three times a week on Drukair, their national airline. As soon as you land you immediately notice a difference between this country and those surrounding it. Majority of Bhutan is still covered in forests with rolling hills which provides for not only a beautiful landscape but also some of the freshest air in the region. From the airport the nation's capital Thimphu is a mere 30 mins drive away. Along the way the roads were quiet and clean, though to be fair the tour guy did say they were just built four years ago. We stopped shortly at one of the country's first iron bridge. The original was swept away by the flood, but it was rebuilt to leave as a reminder for future generations. Walking across the bridge I was slightly hesitant as the only thing holding the bottom was thin entangled wires and bamboo sticks.


Next we saw Trashi Chhoe Dzong, the office of government officials and the current king. It accommodates both the monastic and civil bodies and is situated directly across the 5th king's current resident and the national assembly. Dzongs are a distinctive type of fortress found in Bhutan and Tibet only. Currently there are twenty in Bhutan, one in each district. They are typically massive in size and this one consists of an outer structure that is two stories high with a three-story tower in the center. Upon entering the courtyard you are greeted by colorful murals and detailed architect on the exterior of the buildings. The rooms inside are allocated half to administrative function and half to religious function, primarily a temple and housing for monks.





The following morning we woke up to a beautiful sunny day, as our tour started at The National Memorial Chorten. This temple was built by the mother of the 3rd king in his memory. The large white stupa is designed is a Tibetan style chorten, and is decorated with golden spires and bells. It attracts many elderly Bhutanese on a daily basis who circumambulate the chorten, whirling prayer wheels while praying. Often they do this for hours at a time breaking only for lunch which is brought or donated to them.


Another amazing sight of the city is the Statue of Sakyamuni Buddha, built on top of a hill it sits 51.5 meters high. It was donated by Thailand, Singapore and Taiwan. Though it's surrounding is currently still under construction to build a park and restaurant the statue itself is completed and amazing.


From there we proceeded to Changangkha Lhakhang, one of the oldest temples in the Thimphu Valley. The temple was built in the 15th century and dedicated to the Buddhist emanation of compassion. Many bring their kids here to receive blessings for good health. Like other temples around, this old fortresslike temple houses large prayer wheels which spun has the same effect as orally reciting the prayers.


In the afternoon we stop to watch a local friendly dart game (khuru). Unlike the darts in our country theses are massive in size and made from wood with the target about 10 to 20 meters away. When one team hits the wood target, a dance is performed along with singing to celebrate. It was extremely interesting to watch and provided a more in depth view into the locals' daily lives.


Rating:
Atmosphere: What a difference in culture and life style. Aside from the roads being more peaceful, the valley of Thimphu from the hills offered views most only dreamt of. With beautiful mountains in the background, the city is nested below peacefully surrounded by charming temples and grand Dzong. As I admire it all, I slowly came to understand the nation's concept of measuring wealth based on "gross national happiness"!


Beauty: From the temples to the Dzong everything in the city offered a sense of purity and simplicity. This country unlike others I've visited seems frozen in time, where people are still honest, culture is still cherished and the environment is preserved.
Cleanliness: It is obvious the pride of the people in their nation. Not only are the streets clean and no one litters, but for the first time in weeks I can truly breathe.
Food: The food closely resembles Chinese food but with a little more chili. In fact walking around the local market I was amazed at the amount of red chili used. Most of the food however was very good, one thing I did not find appealing though was butter tea. Don't let the pretty pink color fool you, the drink is salty and extremely creamy due to the butter.





People: Very friendly, in fact most will wave and smile as you go by. They are happy to have their photos taken and won't ask you for money in return. At the stores they are not aggressive and won't hassle you to make a purchase.
Comment: Though the country is slightly more modern than what I had expected, for the most part it has met expectation. I was surprised to see ATMs available however given their modest airport and lack of any traffic light in the whole county. Another very refreshing element of the country is their love for their king, whom based on everything I've heard is a pretty great king. Rare indeed.

Scale: 1-10 = 7.5

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Exploring Kathmandu

After a week in India, I was excited to head to Kathmandu. It was fairly easy to obtain a visa on arrival and within half an hour I was out the airport and ready to go. The airport itself was a little shabby to be the capital's international airport however once outside I was pleasantly surprised. Though the country is clearly a third world country, it was much more organized and well ran than India. In fact the roads were cleaner, the cars honked less and people much much nicer! Walking around Thamel there were sovereign shops all around. You could find anything ranging from a bag made from rice sacks to various spices and Nepalese wall art. It was truly a shoppers paradise. Walking around we stumbled across a Nepalese temple, the third highest in the city. It was situated in an unimposing location, surrounded by local kids just running around playing. It was interesting to see how people have made it a normal part of their everyday life. Further down was Asan Tole, where you could find various spices and groceries being sold by street vendors. The neighborhood was bustling even at night as many visited the nearby Temple of Wealth. Dinner was at this popular restaurant called Nepali Chulo, where the menu consisted of two fixed set, vegetarian and non veg. Though the price was a little hefty, it was catered towards tourist as it also came with a show of Nepalese dancing. The food itself was pretty good and resembled more of Chinese food than Indian, but slightly spicer. My favorite was the wild boar and the creamy lentil sauce that accompanied the dishes.


For a first day in Nepal I couldn't ask for more and was already starting to like the city. The next day we visited Boudha, Kathmandu's tallest Tibetan Buddhist temple. This famous white temple is 36 meters high with the iconic eye at the top. As you walk around the stupa clockwise, the ever seeing eye seems to follow you.


The plaza itself is also very interesting, as shops and restaurants circles the temple it almost feels like a little city of its own inside. The walkways was very clean with monks walking around and praying. We sat for lunch on the terrace of this quaint little momo house. Momos are Nepalese dumplings often made with veggies or chicken/buffalo meat. The food was fantastic, the noodle soups were very tasty despite it only have a few pieces of chicken. However the momos were the highlight of the meal. The Buffalo momos were extremely savory on the inside with the skin being the perfect balance of soft and chewiness. The spicy dipping sauce that accompanied it was just heavenly.


After lunch we stopped by Pashupatinath an important Hindu temple devoted to the god Shiva. The vast difference between the two temples was felt as soon as we entered. Aside from the obvious difference in architectural design and religious symbols, this temple felt more rugged and neglected. Everywhere you looked there were wild monkeys running around and people begging for money. In fact you couldn't take two steps without someone coming up trying to be your tour guide or take photos for money. The whole point of the holy temple seem to have gotten lost in the process. One could hardly believe there could be two temple of such vast difference within a few kilometers from each other.


Day three in Kathmandu started with a cooking class on momo. The class offered by Socialtours is just one of many offered in their Cook Like A Local series. It's a 3 hr class that starts around 10:30 and takes you from the local market to their local kitchen. Though the kitchen was modest in both size and supplies it is often used to prepare food for parties and tour guests. We started from scratch and made both the fillings and the wrappers. By the end of the course we learned everything one would need to learn to make momos at home!



As our stomachs were filled with these yummy momo, our next stop was Swayambhu or otherwise known as Monkey Temple. From the bottom there are 365 steps up the temple, with both sides filled with souvenir vendors. The temple is probably the most sacred among Buddhist pilgrimage sites and second only to Boudha for followers of Tibetan Buddhism.


Once in the temple, there were kids running around asking for money. Its really sad to see people use religious places in such a way and it somewhat detracts from the experience and enjoyment of the place. Lastly we went to Durbar Square, the heart of Kathmandu Valley. The area is filled with many temples most of which you can climb up to get a better view of the detailed Newari craftsmanship.


To complete our amazing time in Kathmandu the last day we went to the Garden of Dream. The garden is only a few minutes walk from the madness of Thamel yet inside it seems like millions miles away. With fountains and beautiful pavilions throughout, this garden is used by locals for family outings and young couples on dates. The architect had an European inspired feel and walking around provided a refreshing and serene feeling, showing this busy city in a whole new light.


Rating:
Atmosphere: Despite the crowded streets and lack of traffic lights, the city was somehow more pleasant to walk around then the cities in India. Cars were slightly more organized and crossing the streets were slightly more manageable. However as can be expected the city was extremely polluted and after a long day of wondering the streets you return covered in dirty and dust.
Beauty: Though there wasn't one specific monument or temple that stood out for the city, as a whole Kathmandu was very interesting architecturally. Many buildings in the streets has beautifully carved windows with extremely intricate designs.


In addition the area around Boudha Stupa is truly a site worth seeing.
Cleanliness: I realized that one of the reason why the streets are so dirty is because it's hard to find a trash can anywhere. Even on the main streets they are non existent and trash simply piles up on the sidewalks.
Food: Though Nepali food is rather similar to Indian food, I found it to be slightly better. Most food are spicy due to amount of red peppers used. Other spices commonly found are cumin, coriander, fenugreek, turmeric and chili. My favorite dishes are the Mutton Curry and Buffalo momo.


People: I was amazed by how friendly the people here are. Many will stop to help you find your way if you seem lost and unlike India they don't ask for money afterwards. The people definitely added to the pleasant experience.
Comment: This city was a great change from India. Despite the hustle and bustle that comes with a big city it still offered a quaint unique feel. Between the touristy atmosphere in Thamel, the old town feel in Durbar Square and the fancy chic stores on Kings' Road the city had something to offer for everyone.

Scale 1-10 = 8

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Last stop in India: Amritsar

As my India adventures comes to an end I'm making one last stop to Amritsar, the home of the Golden Temple. Deciding to try my luck one final time on the train I booked the Amritsar Shtbdi Express, supposedly the best train in the country. The train shockingly enough arrived and left the station extremely promptly. In their AC first class, the seats were roomy and soft while announcements were made in English. Throughout the whole six hour ride they served multiple refreshments along with a pretty respectable dinner. As we rolled into Amritsar only 20mins late I have to admit I was pleasantly surprised.


The city itself has three main attractions worth seeing which made the day relatively easy to plan. The first stop was the Golden Temple, one of India's seven wonders and often visited by locals and foreigners alike. In fact it attracts more than 100,000 visitors daily, more than the Taj Mahal, wish is unbelievable. This sacred temple completed in 1601 is the holiest shrine in Sikhism. Its architecture draws on both Hindu and Muslim style with marble sculptures, golden gildings and precious stones. Before you are allowed to enter however you must wash your feet in the shallow pool and wrap your head. As you proceed onto the marble floor through the gate, your eyes immediately focuses on the beautiful temple sitting in the middle of a serene lake. Echoing throughout are hymns accompanied by various instruments. In the afternoon sun the reflection of the golden temple was almost blinding. As fishes swims around the temple, you can take a stroll on the marble floors which encircles the pool and temple.


An underground spring feeds this sacred lake and throughout the day many immerse themselves in the water as a symbolic cleansing of the soul. Down the road about a 5 min walk is the notorious Jallianwala Bagh, the site of the 1919 Amritsar massacre. On April 13, 1919 British army opened fire on an unarmed gathering of men, women and children, firing 1650 rounds and killing 1579 people. Today an memorial is built to remember that dreadful day, one that became an important mile stone in India's struggle for independence.


On the walls you can see the bullet holes where shots were fired, along with the well into which many jumped and drowned in an attempt to dodge the bullets. Another highly visited attraction is the Wagha Border, the international border between India and Pakistan, about 29 kilometers outside of the city. At sunset each day, the changing of the guard is an event that hundreds line up to see. In fact the crowd that gathers at the gate is quiet a sight in itself. As hundreds of people rush through the tiny main gate like a stampede, it was like Black Friday at Walmart where the only thing to do was hold your ground and push through.


Once inside you were again forced to wait in an endless line as the late afternoon sun beat down on you. Between the heat and the crowd I was beginning to think that this was a big mistake. The actually ceremony lasted about 30mins, where both sides held marches and sang their own songs. Based on the crowd and efforts placed on the Indian side, it was clear who made a bigger deal out of this. As the gates opened and flags were lowered simultaneous the ceremony ended with cheers on both sides.


Rating:
Atmosphere: As like many cities in India, the roads were narrow and crowded. The lack of any traffic light meant there were always chaos and road blocks. Horns were again the standard way of communication where in the high heat of the day sometimes made the city unbearable.
Beauty: With the exception of the Golden Temple the city was uneventful. The temple itself was stunning yet I'm not sure if it warranted a trip on its own. If there are extra time to spare a detour to Amritsar could be considered, otherwise your India
trip would be fine without it.
Cleanliness: Don't think there are any cities in this country that would ever be considered clean. Thinking back on Delhi I guess that's about as close as it gets.
Food: Paneer is really starting to grow on me. Both the texture and the rich sauces it is served with is mouthwatering when eating with roti or naan.


People: Relatively friendly where many were happy to help with directions and questions. Though I did get a few glances, many seemed like they were stemmed from curiosity more than anything else.
Comments: One thing I would recommend for visitors is to skip the Wagha Border. Not only is it expensive to see, but the long wait and crowd was not worth the actual ceremony. Perhaps I'm missing the point, but I didn't understand the over exaggeration of the event.

Rating: 1-10 = 6

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The Holy City of Varanasi

What an night I had trying to get to Varanasi! The original plan was to catch a 11:20pm train out from a station near Agra and arrive in Varanasi in about 7 hours. Little did I know that Indian trains are hardly on time and often with no explanation as to why or when it will actually arrive. In addition, not only was the station dirty, ill equipped and lagging even the tiniest technology but even the ac sleeper sections on the trains left much to be desired. To make matters worst there were no foreigners at the station but me and that was most likely the case on the train. As I waited there for an hour and a half I saw locals jam into luggage compartments of their train or simply just hang off the steps as the train rolled away.


By the time I saw my second Guinea Pig sized rat I decided I simply couldn't go through with the train. Not to mention the guide said this train has been known to arrive 12 hrs later than scheduled, and with no English announcement on the train who knew if I would even get off at the right stop! So in a split second decision I decided to jumped back into my car that was planning to head to Delhi and told the driver to bring me to the airport instead. After all any price on a last minute ticket would be better than getting lost in India!
By 3pm the next day covered in mosquito bites I finally arrived in Varanasi. I soon realized that aside from the sacred Ganges (Ganga) River it is also an extremely holy place in Buddhism. Sarnath, the site of the deer park is where Buddha gave his first sermon and thereby founded Buddhism. The remains of Chaukhandi Stupa commemorating the spot where Buddha met his first disciples and is symbolized today by an octagonal tower.


Many Buddhist monks comes on a pilgrimage to pay respect. The following morning I took a sunrise boat ride on the Ganga and watched as locals bathed and prayed in the holy water by the ghats.


There are nearly 100 ghats along the river, as the Ganga is 2,525 kilometer long, flowing from the Himalayas to Bangladesh. Each ghat has a name and story with temples devoted to various gods, however there are five especially important ones, Dasaswamedh Ghat, Manikarnika Ghat, Harischandra Ghat, Kabir Ghat and Assi Ghat. As we rowed down the river we approach the Manikarnika Ghat, one of two ghats that allows for cremation. From a distance you could see the fire blazing fearlessly as a ceremony was being held.


It takes a total of 3-4 hrs before the body is burnt down to a miniature size and then placed back into the water. The final ashes are left remaining on the ghats in piles, which eventually gets swept away into the river during monsoon season. This holy process is done in hopes that the deceased proceeds to heaven. From beginning to end the process is quiet expensive for locals as it costs around three to four thousand rupees to purchase the wood used.


As day break approached, the sun began it's ascend above the horizon, filling the sky with a deep rich orange glow. The water rippled from the oars of the boats and provided a stunning reflection like thousands of glittering gems. It was easy to get lost in its beauty and for a moment forget the poverty and suffering of the surroundings.


We landed at Scindia ghats which house the Leaning Temple of Shiva and proceeded thru to the narrow streets of the old town. The roads were built pre- British era where bikes and walking was the mode of transportation hence some of the roads were barely wide enough to fit through two ways. At every twist and turn there were shrines and temples built next to houses, some placed so discretely that they were easily missed. As you stroll through the streets it's often common to share the road with cows passing by, just another day in India!
Rating:
Atmosphere: The city was a lot less hectic than others I've visited. In fact for a city of three million the roads were fairly quiet and empty.
Beauty: I wouldn't necessarily describe the city as beautiful but definitely more spiritual.
Cleanliness: Even though the Ganga is a running river, the idea of cremation, bathing and drinking the same water turns my stomach. How there aren't more people getting sick is mind boggling.
Food: The Murgh Maharaja I ate was delicious. The dish contained morsels of chicken stewed in almond gravy flavored with saffron. It was topped off with a thin layer of egg which added to the texture of the dish. Though the dish may not be authentic to Varanasi it was still one of the best I've had in India.


People: Nothing that stood out or is worthy of special comment.
Comments: Varanasi was an exceptional city when you are lucky enough to see sunrise on the Ganga. The site of locals praying in the river was unlike anything you would see in the country. However aside from that there really wasn't much more the city had to offer. Spending one full day in the city is more than enough to get everything done and experience the city. And a final word of advice, always fly in!

Rating: 1-10 = 6.5

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