Santiago....More Than Meets The Eye

Santiago was our first stop, and after almost two weeks in Chile and Argentina the last few days of the trip founds us back in this city.  On our first day here we visited Santa Lucia Hill, a beautiful park situated in the middle of the busy city.  After climbing to the top through a web of trails and steep stone stairs you were rewarded with a panaromic view that on a clear day stretched as far as the mountains.

This little oasis was onced used by the Spanish conquistadors as a lookout point for the planning of the city. Between 1814 and 1817 two defence fortresses were added, La Marcó and Castillo Hidalgo (Hidalgo Castle). Today Castillo Hidalgo is used to hold public and private parties and events. Dinner afterwards was at a quaint little wine bar called Bocanariz in Lastarria, which specialized in Chilean wine. The selection was a little overwhelming but the wait staff was very knowledgeable and perfectly paired our meal with the wines.

The remaining days in Santiago were spent leisurely touring the city. We visited Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino, the largest museum in the world dedicated to the study and display of pre-Columbian artworks and artifacts from Central and South America. Though initially I wasn't planning a visit I changed my mind after all the recommendations, and it was a good thing I did. Some of the exhibits dated back to more than 14,000 years with my favorite collection being Chile before Chile. A sample of pottery, art and textile from the ancient indigenous peoples of Chile. 

Taking a break from the city we took a trip to Concha Y Toro one of the biggest wineries in the world situated just an hour outside the city center. Once there I was amazed at the size of this complex and based on how organized they were it was clear this was going to be a very structured tour. First we went into a sampling room where we sampled a few wines from their Marques line. None of the four wines were that impressive though the Sauvignon Blanc was my favorite. Next we got a tour of the gardens and actually got to taste the grapes off the vines. It was interesting to taste first hand the actual flavors of the grapes that went into producing the wines. Most of them were hard to distinguish from each other though the Gewürztraminer stood out. It had initial flavors of lycée and finished clean. Some of my other favorites were the Resilings and Malbec grapes. The finally part of the tour brought us through to the cellar, famously known as Casillero del Diablo, the Devil's Cellar which was cleverly named to deter the once superstitious thieves from stealing the prize wines.

All in all I thought the whole thing was way too gimmicky and definitely provided an impersonal feel. It paled vastly to the tours we did in Mendoza, which were more personable. Never again will I do a tour scheduled directly through the winery.

Atmosphere: I thoroughly preferred Santiago over Buenos Aires. Many parts of the city reminded me of Shanghai, and brought back a sense of nostalgia. 

Beauty: The view on top of Santa Lucia was a very nice introduction to the city. Though there wasn't a particular part of the city that was "beautiful", overall the city provided a very balanced mixed of new vs old. 

Cleanliness: Despite the numerous stray dogs that wandered the streets, it did not feel dirty. In fact quite the opposite, with the exception of a few sketchy neighborhoods filled with graffiti.

Food: Known for their seafoods, we actively tried to seek out some sushi restaurants. Unfortunately our first experience at Temple Restaurant in Intercontinental was a huge disappointment. The food was mediocre and definitely didn't justify its hefty price tag. The next few tries were slightly more successful as we managed to hunt down some local joints. In general the food of the city was slightly better than average. In addition the local empandas were different than what I'm used to back home. The crust was thicker and not as greasy or crispy. 

People: Overall I thought the people of this city were much nicer and definitely not as aggressive, with  the exception of the central market where vendors harassed us. The city also felt safer and walking at night the massive city of more than 5million people seemed like nothing more than a quiet peaceful town. 

Comments: Before coming on this trip I had full anticipated loving Buenos Aires over Santiago. After all it is a better known city and often described by many as dynamic.  However my experience couldn't have been more different. Everything I expected to love about Buenos Aires I found in Santiago. It was truly a pleasant surprise.

Rating: 7

Read More

The Glaciers of Patagonia

The next few days of the trip were spent in a completely different way. We flew down to El Calafate, where we began our journey through the beautiful Patagonia. El Calafate, is a small town tailored towards travelers wishing to see the glaciers and is often used as the base into Patagonia. In addition only 75km away is the famous Perito Moreno Glacier, one of the largest glaciers in the world not situated in the North or South Pole. What makes this glacier special besides its sheer size is its location. Situated at the same latitude as London, the continuous clouds above the mountains blocks most sun from shining through and melting the ice caps.  Thus the weather is always partly cloudy with sun showers drizzling on and off . As we drove through the national park we caught glimpses of rainbows shining through the rain clouds. The colors rested on the mountains looked as if they were etched into the sides, blending in beautifully. As the van turn the bend our tour guide told us to close our eyes and open them at the count of three. The next view that greeted me was unlike anything I've seen before. There at the end of the river laid the biggest ice mass imaginable. The frozen gigant sat perched on top of the water as if standing guard before the mountain ranges. Up close you were able to hear the cracking of the ice as pieces broke and plunged into the water. At certain angles when the light hit the glacier the reflection was almost blinding. Other time the shadows exposed through the cracks slivers of blue so rich they reminded me of sapphires. It was truly one of nature's most stunning creations.

 The next few days found us in Torres del Paine caught in the middle of some pretty nasty weather.  On the first day we visited a few lagunas in and around the park. However the clouds were so thick it made the once towering mountains seem like nothing more than hills. The brief walk we made to see the Salto Grande waterfall quickly became a fight with Mother Nature as we pushed through the strong gusting winds trying hard not to get swepted away.

At night laying in bed hearing the howling of the wind pounding against the windows and door we decided to scratch the hike to the base of the mountain and instead use the day for some quality rest. The morning of our departure was beautiful as the sun finally shoned through and the wind subsided. We broaded the boat to see the Grey Glacier nearby which took us on a picturques ride along the mountains.  As we got closer to the glacier it started to rain, which set a foggy surreal moody to the place. Upclose this glacier was more porous then the last and resembled an ice cave.  Surrounding our boat where floating chunks of ice big and small, which the staff scooped up to make our Pisco Sour. 

Atmosphere: The glaciers was definitely the highlight of this part of the trip. Though driving out of Torres del Paine on a nice day I quickly saw the beautify of the park and understood why so many came out of their way to experience it.  

People: Found the people pleasant enough. For the most part they were helpful and polite.  

Food: Before leaving Argentina I had the pleasure of tasting their baby lamb, roasted on an open pit. Though typically I'm not a lamb lover, this was one of the best piece of meat I'm eaten. The meat was tender but flavorful while the skin was crispy like a Peking duck.  It was so good I had it two nights in a row.

Beauty: Loved the glacier tours and think it was one of the prettiest natural wonders I've seen. Since typically I don't find myself venturing on trips to experience mother nature this was a good change of pace. Though the snow capped mountains were also pretty, they didn't feel as unique.

Cleanliness: The city of El Calafate was a lot nicer than Aguas Calientes.... The streets where cleaner and the houses didn't have tin roofs. 

Comments: It was a great experience as a whole. The weather could have been better but it held out long enough for us to see the glacier. 

Rating: 7

Read More

A short stop in Buenos Aires

Arriving in Buenos aires to the warm sun we were excited to go and tour the city. The weather was a perfect 85 degrees which was a nice change of pace from the 15 degrees we've been experiencing back home. Since we really had only one full day in the city we wanted to make sure we made the most of it and hit all the main attractions. It didn't take long for us to realize that there really weren't too many. So after a late breakfast we decided to start the day in the city center, which given the massive size of the city was a 20 min cab ride out. Once there we walked down Florida st, a fast pace pedestrian street filled with various shops. As we blended in with all the local and tourists, this metropolitan city began to show its color. Left and right there were people asking if we wanted to change money or try their restaurant. Eventually we arrived in front of Plaza de Mayo, the large historical square that has been the hub of political life for the city since the revolution. Surrounding the square included buildings such as the Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral, the mother church of the archdiocese of Buenos Aires. Inside we caught a glimpse of the changing of the guards at the entrance of General San Martín's Mausoleum. At the base of his black sarcophagus are three life-size female statue representing Argentina, Chile and Peru, three of the regions freed by the General.

Around the corner was Buenos Aires Cabildo, once used as the governments house but now displays paintings, artifacts, clothes and jewellery of the 18th century.

Further across the square laid La Casa Rosada, known in English as the Pink House, the executive mansion and office of the president. 

Our next stop brought us to the cemetery of recolenta which house the tomb of Eva Peron. Laid out like in a perfect grid, walking around this enormous cemetery brought a sense of eeriness despite the fact that it was the middle of the day. Some of the mausoleum were so elaborately decorated with statues and marble that for a minute you forgot what you were looking at.

We ended the day with a meal at Don Juilo, the famous parilla in the city. As we quered up with the other people outside waiting for a table I started to question if this was time well spent. After all the past few days of culinary experiences has all came up short. Just then the hostess informed us our table was ready. Walking in, the smell of the steaks cooking on their open grill seemed promising.

As my sirloin arrived, and I cut my first bite I was relieved to see it cooked perfectly. For the first time on this trip the steak I ordered was what I had imagined for Argentina, flavorful and juicy. This one steak manage to redeemed my impression of the food in the country. 

Atmosphere: Typical of a large city, I found it chaotic and dirty. The pollution of the car fumes and the crowds of people reminded me why I preferred second tiered cities. Though certain neighborhoods like Palmero Soho, where we stay had a charm to it, especially at night as it was bursting with life from all the restaurants and cafes, in general I grew weary of the city quickly.

Cleaniness: Would not categorize it as clean, in fact it felt less so than Santiago. Though it was interesting that there also weren't many stray dogs roaming the street. 

Food: The meal at Don Juilo was one of the best I've had. An absolute must when in the city.

People: Beginning to notice that the people are not extremely friendly. Though they never come off rude or unpleasant, they don't carry the same air of hospitality as say Istanbul. Perhaps it would be different had I spoke Spanish.

Beauty: Don't think beauty is the word to describe the city. In fact I view it more as sufficient, in the sense that everything you need is there but nothing captures your sense. 

Comment: One day was enough for me to get a taste of the city and realize it was not for me. Unlike when I left Mendoza a little reluctant, I feel no remorse leaving this city and in fact is eagerly looking forward to El Calafate.

Rating: 4.5 

Read More

Mendoza, land of a thousand wineries

Heading towards Mendoza via the scenic route on the Andesmar Bus this morning. It started off cold and glummy as we arrived at the bus station in Santiago. As the bus rolled into the run down station, we got on board the double decker and sat in the best seats in the house. Up top in the front row yield a near unobstructed view of the open road and vast mountain ranges ahead. Luckily it didn't take long for the sun to start peaking through the thick clouds and provide the perfect lighting for our cameras to click away.

So for the next few hours we chatted up a nice Canadian lady the next seat over while eagerly trying to capture as much of the surrounding beauty through every means possible. Finally by noon we arrived at the control point for border crossing into Argentina. It was here where we spent the next 3 hrs mostly waiting to get the necessary documents and luggage checked. It boggles the mind the inefficiency of the process for a route frequently traveled. By the time we finally arrive in Mendoza around 6pm, the trip had officially took 9hrs for the 360km from Santiago. 

The next day was cold and rainy as we set to go on our wine tour of Lujan de Cuyo. The tour consisted of four stops with a lunch at one of the vineyards. Our first stop was Alta Vista, a French family owned winery in a historical bodega that was refurbished in 2003. It's specialty included small volume tanks that allowed them to produce their Alto line, a very limited wine crafted from a blend of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon produced from hand picked grapes. In addition the tour took us around the cellars before we sat down for our tasting. Amongst the sampling included the iconic Argentiean white Torrontes, the 2011 Terroir Selection Malbec, the Alizarine and their iconic Alto. All were good, with the Alto being exceptional. Our next stop was Cruzat the only producer of sparkling wine in the region. Though the various sampling were unmemorable we did get to bottle and label our own bottle of rosé.

This was followed by a five course lunch with wine pairing at the famous Ruca Malen. The wine like the courses started off light with Torrontes and progressed on towards Malbec and Cabernet before ending with sparkling. Some of the unique dishes included a goat cheese ice-cream with tomatoes and braise pork with prune chutney. However the absolute star of the meal was the tenderloin steak with mixed grilled vegetables. The aroma of the dish was mouthwatering and the first bite into the succulent steak did not disappoint. The final stop on our tour was a small family owned winery called Mendel. The vineyard paled in comparison to the others in both size and quality of wine. In fact as a final stop it was a little disappointing. To end the day we dined at 1884, supposedly the best restaurant in Mendoza. With this reputation we went in with high expectations and expected to be blown away. The squid salad appetizer with potatoes and quail egg I ordered was good but fell short of exceptional, while the main ribeye course lacked seasoning in both the Chimichurri sauce and steak, though was cooked perfectly.

In short the meal was not quite to the caliber I expected, especially for the price tag. Our final day in Mendoza consisted of a winery tour to Uco Valley, one of the newer regions in the area to produce wine. Our first stop was Pulenta Estate, a beautiful winery situated on the border of Lujan and Uco valley. The winery had many similarities to Alta Vista like their small volume tanks and their massive cellars. In fact walking around the cold dimly lit cellars surrounded by hundreds of thousands of oak barrels was quite a sight.

The following stop couldn't been any more different. La Azul was a small vineyard that specialized more in selling their grapes to other labels than producing their own. What little they did make ranged from table wine Malbec and Cab that were acidic and unbalanced due to never being aged in oak to a very very limited gran reserve. The gran reserve which we tasted straight out the barrel was surprisingly good and could only get better stored for the next decade. The final stop of the day was at O'Fournier where we had a late lunch. Again it was served as a multi course pairing designed to complement the wines. The wines were typical of the region nothing special, the food however were pretty good. As we finished our meal the sun shone through the thick blanket of clouds and for the first time in two days we saw the snow capped mountains in the background and got a glimpse of the true beauty of the land and imagined it at its fullest potential.

Atmosphere: The city of Mendoza was a lot bigger than I'd imagined and at times reminded me of the old districts in Shanghai. The outskirts of the city were surrounded by vine yards while some smaller bogedas blended into the various neighborhoods. All together the one thousand or so vineyards in the area provided a beautiful landscape as you drove into the city.

Food: Steak as Argentina is famously known for has been the core of my diet for the past few days. However it wasn't until now that I learned the locals take their steak well done, almost jerky like. Hence the constant problem of getting steak way over cooked.  Though I've had a few dishes that were pretty good, most steaks so far has been slightly disappointing.

People: Having spent the majority of our time on vine yard tours we really didn't have many encounters with the local. The few wait staff or taxi drivers seemed friendly enough however.

Beauty: Despite the uncommon rainy weather we experienced in the past few days, the vineyards were still quite beautiful. 

Cleanliness: Surpringly clean for a South American city. There were definitely parts of the city that were run down and covered with graffiti. However for the most part it was relatively clean as houses hung their garbage bags on trees for trash day.

Comments: Mendoza was a city I wouldn't have mind staying a few more days. However outside of wine tours I can imagine the city getting old quickly. Perhaps it's better to leave wanting more than the alternative.

Rating: 8

Read More