Sep 30, 2011

Paradise found in Bali

The view from our resort in Bali outlooking the beach was simply breath taking. On our first night we were lucky enough to catch the sunset over the water. The sky stretched out endlessly over the horizon, lite up in a golden hue with the soft colors bouncing off the reflections on the water. As the silhouette of couples filled the shorelines, it was easy to see why this has become one of the top honeymoon destinations in the world.


As the night fast approached, we decided to venture out of the resort and find food on the nearby streets. Balinese food which typically is not spicy, would be a good change from the numerous Thai curry dishes I've been eating. Never really having been exposed to the cuisine before I was excited to see what it had to offer. However a quick scan of the menus outside the restaurants was a little disappointing as most of the choices of their local dishes consisted of fried rice, noodles and various satays.


We decided to try their fried noodles, which was served with a piece of fried chicken and an egg on top. The dish was over seasoned with soy sauce and various of other spices, however no particular flavor really stood out.


The satay we ordered was more atheistically pleasing than taste, as the texture was chewy and slightly bland. As a first taste of the local food, I was not yet impressed. The next few days the beautiful sunny weather continued, which made sunbathing and splashing around the pool the perfect pastime. Being as there really wasn't much to do on the island, I felt content to just lay around napping, eating and drinking and it was much fortunate for us that we stumbled upon the only hard liquor to be sold outside the resorts.


This clear spirit called Arak was perfect for mixing with juices and though it resembled vodka, was much smoother in a cocktail. As for the food, not being discouraged from the first night we continued our search for good local dishes, and was glad when our efforts prevailed. The following meals we had on the island was much better, with some of mine favorite dishes being crispy fried duck, that tasted like a deep fried thanksgiving turkey but juicier, beef stew cooked in a tamarind sauce with a slight chili flavor and a nine course meat platter selection with a savory pork shoulder stew and curry like beef with a jerky seasoning.














One of the things that really stood out to me was the amount of pork dishes offered on the menu for a predominately Muslim country. It was hard to tell if that was more due to the strong tourism presence or if Bali managed to maintain much of their own culture.


Walking around the island however we did come across various smaller temples that was clearly Buddhism influenced. It was nice to see their preservation despite the difference in cultures and beliefs of the country.


We finished off this leg of the trip in the most unusual way. Due to the overwhelming number of German tourists and the coincidental timing with Oktoberfest we caught an Indonesian version of the celebration. The entertainment was an odd mixture of cabaret dancers and actual German singers and musicians. Around the room Bali Hai beer was served by local girls in pig tails, dressed in traditional German clothes. Huge pretzels and half roasted chicken were consumed by everyone as some sang along to the numerous drinking songs played. It was, I'm sure nothing like what the Germans envisioned their holiday to be, but still nevertheless festive and a good effort and marketing strategy.


Rating
Atmosphere: The resort strip of Bali did a great job of not only presenting the exotic feeling of the island but also making the stay as comfortable as possible. Though certain parts were more than a little commercialized, I could have done without the KFC and Starbucks, it succeeded in integrating it in a way that the place still preserved it's local charm.
Food: This category I have mixed feelings on. Overall I can't say I feel strongly one way or another about it. As with all ethnic cuisines, there were definitely a few exceptional dishes, but all in all the flavors reminded me of a mix between chinese and malaysian food, without any additional twist of its own.
People: Though still friendly I was given the impression that most were that way not by nature but more through business needs. In addition, the people seemed more eager to make money and less likely to pass up an opportunity than the Thais.
Cleanliness: Since we never really left the resort strip, the area that we stayed at was relatively clean. The steps by the beach front properties were constantly being cleaned and maintained. The outer streets were fairly trash free given what could have been expected of the county.
Beauty: On the beach the view was truly amazing. Laying on the chairs overlooking the water at sunset, one could feel all their troubles and worries melt away. For a brief moment it was easy to forget that this place was still in a poor third world country.
Overall: What a beautiful place! Having traveled the world for the past decade, most places I've visited I deemed as a once in a life time trip. Bali however, is one of the few places I'd see myself returning to.

SCALE 1-10: 7.5

Sep 27, 2011

Adventures in Phuket

After two and a half days in Phuket I feel like I've seen majority of what the place has to offer, so it's not really a huge lost that today is pouring rain. On our first day here we decided to start by heading to the beach, which despite it's white sand and blue water was not able to alter my preferences for a vacation in the city instead.








No matter what body of water, how clear the water or fine the beaches I have yet to find one that has changed my views thus far. After what seemed like an eternity laying under the umbrella I had finally conviced my husband to leave only to find that we had only been there for 2 hrs! Needless to say I am not a water person. Later that day we ventured out to find food and stumbled upon a whole strip of over priced restaurants catered to tourists. Though the prices was outrageous the food was amazing and hands down the best Thai curry I've ever had...





For those of you that knows just how much I love curry, you should understand the magnitude of this claim. The flavor of the dish was full and abundant, with a creamy coconut finish, much richer than the standard dish. The chilli was spicy yet not so over powering that the other flavors of the lemongrass and shallots were lost. Needless to say this dish has made it on to my "Must Try" to make list for when I get back to the states.





As far as appetizers we tried the spicy papaya salad, which I'm embarrassed to say was my first ever but definitely not last. The flavors were a balance of sour and spicy, with the green papaya yielding a nice crunchy finish. All in all the restaurant was pretty good, beyond my expectations and definitely a good way to start Phuket.






The next day we took a day tour and went to what the locals now call James Bond Island, made popular by the scene in Tomorrow Never Dies...
The weather unfortunately was everything but sunny however being on the shore, it was easy to see the beauty of the place on a clear day. The numerous mountains that rose out of the sea where vast and in the fog and clouds presented a mystical feel. As the water crashed alongside our boat, which was powered by an engine similar to lawn mower, and equally loud, I wondered to myself how the locals used to live out here. The islands were small and secluded with the only signs of life being the numerous vendors who set up shops, waiting for on the tourists as the boats docked.
As our adventurous day came to an end, we went back into town for a much needed meal and came across what I think is one of the best street food in the world. A blend of crepe and roti, this concoction is simply delicious, with fillings and topping to your hearts desire.





As I stood there watching the guy roll out the dough and fry it on a pan lid, the show was really half the fun.





The end result was ever bit what I remembered it to be from my last tasting in Bangkok 5 years ago. The dough was flakey and warm, with the banana in the middle slightly heated and mushy, the top was drizzled with chocolate and finally served on a flimsy plate.





As much as I love crepes, these little pancakes as they call it are every bit as good, which makes me wonder why no one has started one in the states? As a conclusion to this leg of the trip, we decided it would be incomplete without a visit to the local market. After being exposed to the local flavors we set out to find these spices for ourselves.


Luckily we were able to locate a market nearby which sold not only dry goods but also all the exotic fruits known to southeast asia. Though most of them we now have in the states, given the rare nature of them they still command a premium. My favorite in the array of 花果山 is still the mangosteen, which despite it's name taste nothing like a mango to me!


Unable to read the signs on the rest of the goods we figured most of the jars and bags contained curry and just selected a few, hoping the end result will produce the same flavor which we have come accustom to in Thai foods!


Rating
Atmosphere: All around the area it was clear that tourism was their main source of income. Kuta unlike Patong was more tailored towards families and tour groups, hence the pace was slower, less rowdy and slighty more upscale.
Food: Having never been a huge fan of Thai food, I really wasn't expecting much and thus was pleasantly surprised. Though majority of my meals consisted of curry, like I said above it was some of the best I've had!
People: I forgot how friendly the Thai people are. Not sure if it's a business tactic but all the bowing as you enter and leave is a pretty nice touch. In addition I found them not aggressive and was even a little surprised when they passed up an opportunity to make money just because it was early.
Cleanliness: Ok so maybe it's not really fair to rate any southeast Asian country in this category with the exception of Singapore, which is at the other end of the extreme. Nevertheless it's a category in all my past travel entries and just to keep with the norm... I'd say Phuket wasn't nearly as bad as one would expect but can hardly be considered clean.
Beauty: The beach itself was nice but again nothing spectacular. The town was as to be expected with run down houses and small shops.
Overall: Not a bad experience but not sure there was anything so impressive as to make a return trip. The people were definitely a plus and made the experience a little more enjoyable!

SCALE 1-10: 6

Sep 11, 2011

Wine Flights: Beaujolais

Beaujolais is the light-bodied red wine made in the central-eastern French region of the same name. These wine are made exclusively from the Gamay grape, and typically described as bring packed with vibrant cherry and berry flavors. Currently the 2009 vintage is abundant on the store shelves and critics claims it to be one of the best vintage in a decade! Though typically the wine is meant to be drank young, the Beaujolais crus can actually be aged for many years.

This weekend I had the pleasure of tasting my way through 5 of  the total 10 crus each with a surprising different style and flavors. Here's a quicky guide of the 10 published by Wine Enthusiast Magazine ranging from the lightest to the most age worthy with additional tasting notes for the ones I've tried :

Regnie: The newest and softest of the crus with light tannins. Good to drink young as aging is only appropriate for 1-3 years. (My least favorite of the 5 as it was extremely light in bodied with an acidic finish. Fruity flavors were hard to pick up and did not linger)

Brouilly: The largest & most southerly of the crus, with fruity aroma. The wine can be aged for 1-4 years. (A medium bodied wine with a hint of sweetness. The flavor was well rounded and finished off dry. Much more enjoyable than the other 3.)

Chiroubles: The highest of the cru villages at an elevation of 1,200 feet, producing the coolest of e crus in character. Age-able for 2-5 years.

Cote de Brouilly: A small appellation in the heart of the Brouilly appellation, on the slopes of Mount Brouilly. Good to age for 1-5 years,

Chenas: The least known of all the crus due to their small production. Good to age for 1-6 years.

Fleurie: Among the most expensive of the Beaujolais crus, age-able for 2-6 years. (The wine is dry with tannins that is dense and tight. All in all an easy wine to drink but not impressive)

Saint-Amour: From the village at the north of Beaujolais, said to be named after Roman solider. The wine can be aged from 1-5 years.

Julienas: Powerful wines come from this northern cru village. Their dense texture is what sets these wines apart from other crus. Good to age for 2-5 years.

Moulin-a-Vent,: These wines are intense and tannic when young. They have all the Gamay fruitiness and can be aged 2-8 years. (My second least favorite of the night, though the cherry aroma was pretty distinct. Again the wine was acidic and unbalanced.)

Morgon: The big Beaujolais, as it hails some of the finest vineyards sites of all the crus. These wine are also the heaviest in tannins able to be aged for 10 years. (By far my favorite of the night. The aroma consisted of sweet and buttery caramel.  It is well balanced and finishes off very smooth.  An absolute delight to drink.)