Santiago....More Than Meets The Eye

Santiago was our first stop, and after almost two weeks in Chile and Argentina the last few days of the trip founds us back in this city.  On our first day here we visited Santa Lucia Hill, a beautiful park situated in the middle of the busy city.  After climbing to the top through a web of trails and steep stone stairs you were rewarded with a panaromic view that on a clear day stretched as far as the mountains.

This little oasis was onced used by the Spanish conquistadors as a lookout point for the planning of the city. Between 1814 and 1817 two defence fortresses were added, La Marcó and Castillo Hidalgo (Hidalgo Castle). Today Castillo Hidalgo is used to hold public and private parties and events. Dinner afterwards was at a quaint little wine bar called Bocanariz in Lastarria, which specialized in Chilean wine. The selection was a little overwhelming but the wait staff was very knowledgeable and perfectly paired our meal with the wines.

The remaining days in Santiago were spent leisurely touring the city. We visited Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino, the largest museum in the world dedicated to the study and display of pre-Columbian artworks and artifacts from Central and South America. Though initially I wasn't planning a visit I changed my mind after all the recommendations, and it was a good thing I did. Some of the exhibits dated back to more than 14,000 years with my favorite collection being Chile before Chile. A sample of pottery, art and textile from the ancient indigenous peoples of Chile. 

Taking a break from the city we took a trip to Concha Y Toro one of the biggest wineries in the world situated just an hour outside the city center. Once there I was amazed at the size of this complex and based on how organized they were it was clear this was going to be a very structured tour. First we went into a sampling room where we sampled a few wines from their Marques line. None of the four wines were that impressive though the Sauvignon Blanc was my favorite. Next we got a tour of the gardens and actually got to taste the grapes off the vines. It was interesting to taste first hand the actual flavors of the grapes that went into producing the wines. Most of them were hard to distinguish from each other though the Gewürztraminer stood out. It had initial flavors of lycée and finished clean. Some of my other favorites were the Resilings and Malbec grapes. The finally part of the tour brought us through to the cellar, famously known as Casillero del Diablo, the Devil's Cellar which was cleverly named to deter the once superstitious thieves from stealing the prize wines.

All in all I thought the whole thing was way too gimmicky and definitely provided an impersonal feel. It paled vastly to the tours we did in Mendoza, which were more personable. Never again will I do a tour scheduled directly through the winery.

Atmosphere: I thoroughly preferred Santiago over Buenos Aires. Many parts of the city reminded me of Shanghai, and brought back a sense of nostalgia. 

Beauty: The view on top of Santa Lucia was a very nice introduction to the city. Though there wasn't a particular part of the city that was "beautiful", overall the city provided a very balanced mixed of new vs old. 

Cleanliness: Despite the numerous stray dogs that wandered the streets, it did not feel dirty. In fact quite the opposite, with the exception of a few sketchy neighborhoods filled with graffiti.

Food: Known for their seafoods, we actively tried to seek out some sushi restaurants. Unfortunately our first experience at Temple Restaurant in Intercontinental was a huge disappointment. The food was mediocre and definitely didn't justify its hefty price tag. The next few tries were slightly more successful as we managed to hunt down some local joints. In general the food of the city was slightly better than average. In addition the local empandas were different than what I'm used to back home. The crust was thicker and not as greasy or crispy. 

People: Overall I thought the people of this city were much nicer and definitely not as aggressive, with  the exception of the central market where vendors harassed us. The city also felt safer and walking at night the massive city of more than 5million people seemed like nothing more than a quiet peaceful town. 

Comments: Before coming on this trip I had full anticipated loving Buenos Aires over Santiago. After all it is a better known city and often described by many as dynamic.  However my experience couldn't have been more different. Everything I expected to love about Buenos Aires I found in Santiago. It was truly a pleasant surprise.

Rating: 7

Read More

The Glaciers of Patagonia

The next few days of the trip were spent in a completely different way. We flew down to El Calafate, where we began our journey through the beautiful Patagonia. El Calafate, is a small town tailored towards travelers wishing to see the glaciers and is often used as the base into Patagonia. In addition only 75km away is the famous Perito Moreno Glacier, one of the largest glaciers in the world not situated in the North or South Pole. What makes this glacier special besides its sheer size is its location. Situated at the same latitude as London, the continuous clouds above the mountains blocks most sun from shining through and melting the ice caps.  Thus the weather is always partly cloudy with sun showers drizzling on and off . As we drove through the national park we caught glimpses of rainbows shining through the rain clouds. The colors rested on the mountains looked as if they were etched into the sides, blending in beautifully. As the van turn the bend our tour guide told us to close our eyes and open them at the count of three. The next view that greeted me was unlike anything I've seen before. There at the end of the river laid the biggest ice mass imaginable. The frozen gigant sat perched on top of the water as if standing guard before the mountain ranges. Up close you were able to hear the cracking of the ice as pieces broke and plunged into the water. At certain angles when the light hit the glacier the reflection was almost blinding. Other time the shadows exposed through the cracks slivers of blue so rich they reminded me of sapphires. It was truly one of nature's most stunning creations.

 The next few days found us in Torres del Paine caught in the middle of some pretty nasty weather.  On the first day we visited a few lagunas in and around the park. However the clouds were so thick it made the once towering mountains seem like nothing more than hills. The brief walk we made to see the Salto Grande waterfall quickly became a fight with Mother Nature as we pushed through the strong gusting winds trying hard not to get swepted away.

At night laying in bed hearing the howling of the wind pounding against the windows and door we decided to scratch the hike to the base of the mountain and instead use the day for some quality rest. The morning of our departure was beautiful as the sun finally shoned through and the wind subsided. We broaded the boat to see the Grey Glacier nearby which took us on a picturques ride along the mountains.  As we got closer to the glacier it started to rain, which set a foggy surreal moody to the place. Upclose this glacier was more porous then the last and resembled an ice cave.  Surrounding our boat where floating chunks of ice big and small, which the staff scooped up to make our Pisco Sour. 

Atmosphere: The glaciers was definitely the highlight of this part of the trip. Though driving out of Torres del Paine on a nice day I quickly saw the beautify of the park and understood why so many came out of their way to experience it.  

People: Found the people pleasant enough. For the most part they were helpful and polite.  

Food: Before leaving Argentina I had the pleasure of tasting their baby lamb, roasted on an open pit. Though typically I'm not a lamb lover, this was one of the best piece of meat I'm eaten. The meat was tender but flavorful while the skin was crispy like a Peking duck.  It was so good I had it two nights in a row.

Beauty: Loved the glacier tours and think it was one of the prettiest natural wonders I've seen. Since typically I don't find myself venturing on trips to experience mother nature this was a good change of pace. Though the snow capped mountains were also pretty, they didn't feel as unique.

Cleanliness: The city of El Calafate was a lot nicer than Aguas Calientes.... The streets where cleaner and the houses didn't have tin roofs. 

Comments: It was a great experience as a whole. The weather could have been better but it held out long enough for us to see the glacier. 

Rating: 7

Read More