The Old Capital - Phunaka

On route to Phunaka on a clear sunny day you are rewarded with one of the most spectacular views of the Himalaya. Since the country has one road in and out of Thimphu in order to travel to Phunaka you will pass by the famous Dochula Pass. It is there where you will find the Druk Wangyal Khangzang, a cluster of 108 stupa built in a circle that spirals up to one big stupa in the middle. It was a tribute to the selfless service and visionary leadership of the 4th King, and is now a sacred legacy to the nation and its people.


Aside from the beauty of the stupas itself, it is also situated on a mound that yields a breathtaking view of the snow capped Himalayan mountain peaks in the background. As the white clouds drifts across and the sun shined through the view was truly beyond words. Around the stupa are numerous prayer flags that people place to have their prayers spread by the winds.


Once in Phunaka we visited the famous Dzong which is the second oldest and second largest dzong in Bhutan. This beautiful Dzong is used for all important ceremonies of the country including the 5th king's coronation and wedding. It stands at a total of six-stories tall with a central tower and a scenic mountainous background. Surrounded by Pho Chu and Mo Chu the two rivers meets together at the dzong with one bridge that links it to the nearby town.





Inside, the buildings are again divided half for administration and half for religion. The first courtyard consisted of mainly administrative offices along with a Bodhi Tree. while the second courtyard is reserved for the residence of the monks. The third and final courtyard contains the chapel which was used for the royal ceremonies and was impressive in both size and beauty. In addition, next door lays the remains of Pema Lingpa and Zhanbdrung Ngawang Namgyal which is accessible only by the king and the senior religious leader.


The next morning we started the day with a trek through the local village to see Chimi Lhakhang, otherwise known as The Temple of Fertility. It is often believed that couples who has been having problems conceiving, if they pray and sleep at this temple they will be blessed with a child.


The trail through the fields to the temple takes about 45mins where on the way you see the locals at work. The view once on top of the hill yields the whole valley below and is one of the most serene and peaceful sights around.


Rating:
Atmosphere: Unlike Thimphu which is considered busy for Bhutan's standards, Phunaka and its surrounding towns are extremely calm. At night after sunset everything is still and the only sounds to be heard is the wind and rain hitting the windows.
Beauty: I have come to realize that Dzongs are all relatively the same on the inside. What differentiates them is the location and setting. The one in Phunaka for example is exceptionally beautiful since it sits perched on a hill, surrounded by the rivers.
Cleanliness: Like Thimphu, Phunaka's roads are also pretty clean. The air on the mountain was so fresh and clean I wondered how I was going to go back to Nepal!
Food: For the most part food has not been the highlight of this trip. Not to say that it wasn't good, it just wasn't special. Though the tour guide did say that traditional Bhutanese food is very spicy it however has been tamed down for the tourists. Another aspect of their food I found extremely interesting is the use of cheese in mixed vegetable dishes. The result is almost like the US version of cheese and broccoli and equally not good.
People: I find the people extremely nice and innocent. Not sure if it's the culture or their limited interactions with foreigners. Either way they have definitely added to the wonder experience and it also speaks a lot of the country.
Comment: Though Phunaka was much smaller than I'd expect spending one night in the area was nice. The highlight of the area is definitely the view of the mountain ranges and should definitely be a priority to see. If possible have lunch nearby, there is one restaurant just down the road from the 108 stupas, the food was ok but the view was worth the trip.

Scale 1-10 = 7.5