Oct 2, 2011

Exploring Borobudur...One of the Greatest Buddhist Monuments in the World

A few years back I had the pleasure of backpacking through Southeast Asia. On that amazing trip I visited both Ankor Wat in Cambodia and Bagan in Burma. Though both were spectacular in their own ways, I was always a little disappointed that I couldn't make my way to Borobudur at the time. So on this trip, I jumped at the opportunity to fulfill this longing desire. I have always heard different opinions as to which of the three was viewed the most amazing, but I was determined to judge that for myself! However before I proceed much further, I think some basic facts about this great temple is needed to truly appreciate its wonder so I have provided the information below as provided by http://www.buddhanet.net/boro.htm.

Though uncertain of its true age, it is thought that the temple was built around the end of the 7th, beginning of the 8th century A.D. For about a century and a half it was the spiritual centre of Buddhism in Java, however evidence suggest it was abandoned following the decline of Buddhist and Hindu kingdoms in Java, as the Javanese conversed to Islam. The structure itself is composed of 55,000 square meters of lava-rock erected on a hill in the form of a stepped-pyramid of six rectangular storeys, three circular terraces and a central stupa forming the summit. The whole temple is in the form of a lotus, the sacred flower of Buddha. For each direction there are ninety-two Dhyani Buddha statues and 1,460 relief scenes. The lowest level has 160 reliefs depicting cause and effect; the middle level contains various stories of the Buddha's life from the Jataka Tales; the highest level has no reliefs or decorations whatsoever but has a balcony, square in shape with round walls: a circle without beginning or end. Here is the place of the ninety-two Vajrasattvas or Dhyani Buddhas tucked into small stupas. Each of these statues has a mudra (hand gesture) indicating one of the five directions: east, with the mudra of calling the earth to witness; south, with the hand position of blessing; west, with the gesture of meditation; north, the mudra of fearlessness; and the centre with the gesture of teaching. Besides being the highest symbol of Buddhism, the Borobodur stupa is also a replica of the universe. It symbolises the micro-cosmos, which is divided into three levels, the first level in which man's world of desire is influenced by negative impulses; in the middle level, man has control of his negative impulses and uses his positive impulses; in the highest level, the world of man is no longer bounded by physical and worldly ancient desire.


From the bottom of the hill, the gigantic monument shadowed over us, and one could make out the numerous groups of people ascending the steps of the temple. As we walked closer the various levels became more and more apparent until finally they stood towering over us.


The bottom six rectangular levels of the temple were similar, each consisting of various relics and carvings. The relics that can be found on the base of the walls was so intricate that even after centuries and multiple natural disasters it was still easy to make out the form and expressions of the subjects.


The Buddha statues that could be seen throughout the levels were placed in two ways, some were alongside each other perched on the edge of the steps while others were tucked inside a shrine like housing. Though some were clearly in better conditions than others, all displayed the the precision that was put into the carvings. The size of some stones used to construct the temple was truly a testament of the advance nature of the civilization at the time.


As we climbed up further, levels seven through nine were even more incredible, as each was bordered by a series of stupas. Looking out, the mountains that laid in the distance produced a feeling of peace and serenity. The tenth and final level was actually inaccessible as the platform on top was barely large enough to house the stupa itself. I guess it was built in such a way as to symbolize the true limited number of people to reach complete nirvana.


At sunset, standing behind the statue of the meditating Buddha outlooking the world, the sky was both calm and fiery. Suddenly the vastness that laid before me provided both a sense of excitement for the unknown yet also apprehension for the upcoming uncertainties. As I took a deep breathe and soaked in the beauty of the moment I glanced again at Buddha who remained peacefully starring out afar!


Rating:
Atmosphere: Being inside the temple complex was extremely peaceful. Every now and then we saw monks walking by, which further presented the area with a holy of sense of feel. The restaurant on the grounds of the complex was semi outdoors, as we sat for dinner we had a clear view of the temple with soft music filling the background.
Food: Similar to the food in Bali, however there was this fried tofu stuffed with vegetables dish that was really good. The veggies provided the tofu with more flavor yet the dish was still moist on the inside and crunchy on the outside!
People: The people were really friendly, even in the airport as they were bargaining with us for the cab fare. People that you asked for help was eager to provide it and did so with a smile.
Cleanliness: Inside the temple everything was kept tidy. No one littered out of respect for the temple. In the surrounding towns though it was no different from what is to be expected from Indonesia.
Beauty: Finally being able to see the temple was awesome. It was especially remarkable to be able to catch sunset on the top of the structure. In addition we lucked out as levels 8-10 was just reopened four days ago due to renovations from the recent volcanic eruption.
Overall: As for which of the three complex is more impressive, I find it hard to judge now that I've seen them all. Since Borobudur is but one single structure where Bagan is temples spreads for miles they hardly seem comparable. I think it's fair to say that they all have impressive aspects and each holds it's own in this world of wonders.

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