A short stop in Buenos Aires

Arriving in Buenos aires to the warm sun we were excited to go and tour the city. The weather was a perfect 85 degrees which was a nice change of pace from the 15 degrees we've been experiencing back home. Since we really had only one full day in the city we wanted to make sure we made the most of it and hit all the main attractions. It didn't take long for us to realize that there really weren't too many. So after a late breakfast we decided to start the day in the city center, which given the massive size of the city was a 20 min cab ride out. Once there we walked down Florida st, a fast pace pedestrian street filled with various shops. As we blended in with all the local and tourists, this metropolitan city began to show its color. Left and right there were people asking if we wanted to change money or try their restaurant. Eventually we arrived in front of Plaza de Mayo, the large historical square that has been the hub of political life for the city since the revolution. Surrounding the square included buildings such as the Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral, the mother church of the archdiocese of Buenos Aires. Inside we caught a glimpse of the changing of the guards at the entrance of General San Martín's Mausoleum. At the base of his black sarcophagus are three life-size female statue representing Argentina, Chile and Peru, three of the regions freed by the General.

Around the corner was Buenos Aires Cabildo, once used as the governments house but now displays paintings, artifacts, clothes and jewellery of the 18th century.

Further across the square laid La Casa Rosada, known in English as the Pink House, the executive mansion and office of the president. 

Our next stop brought us to the cemetery of recolenta which house the tomb of Eva Peron. Laid out like in a perfect grid, walking around this enormous cemetery brought a sense of eeriness despite the fact that it was the middle of the day. Some of the mausoleum were so elaborately decorated with statues and marble that for a minute you forgot what you were looking at.

We ended the day with a meal at Don Juilo, the famous parilla in the city. As we quered up with the other people outside waiting for a table I started to question if this was time well spent. After all the past few days of culinary experiences has all came up short. Just then the hostess informed us our table was ready. Walking in, the smell of the steaks cooking on their open grill seemed promising.

As my sirloin arrived, and I cut my first bite I was relieved to see it cooked perfectly. For the first time on this trip the steak I ordered was what I had imagined for Argentina, flavorful and juicy. This one steak manage to redeemed my impression of the food in the country. 

Atmosphere: Typical of a large city, I found it chaotic and dirty. The pollution of the car fumes and the crowds of people reminded me why I preferred second tiered cities. Though certain neighborhoods like Palmero Soho, where we stay had a charm to it, especially at night as it was bursting with life from all the restaurants and cafes, in general I grew weary of the city quickly.

Cleaniness: Would not categorize it as clean, in fact it felt less so than Santiago. Though it was interesting that there also weren't many stray dogs roaming the street. 

Food: The meal at Don Juilo was one of the best I've had. An absolute must when in the city.

People: Beginning to notice that the people are not extremely friendly. Though they never come off rude or unpleasant, they don't carry the same air of hospitality as say Istanbul. Perhaps it would be different had I spoke Spanish.

Beauty: Don't think beauty is the word to describe the city. In fact I view it more as sufficient, in the sense that everything you need is there but nothing captures your sense. 

Comment: One day was enough for me to get a taste of the city and realize it was not for me. Unlike when I left Mendoza a little reluctant, I feel no remorse leaving this city and in fact is eagerly looking forward to El Calafate.

Rating: 4.5 

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Mendoza, land of a thousand wineries

Heading towards Mendoza via the scenic route on the Andesmar Bus this morning. It started off cold and glummy as we arrived at the bus station in Santiago. As the bus rolled into the run down station, we got on board the double decker and sat in the best seats in the house. Up top in the front row yield a near unobstructed view of the open road and vast mountain ranges ahead. Luckily it didn't take long for the sun to start peaking through the thick clouds and provide the perfect lighting for our cameras to click away.

So for the next few hours we chatted up a nice Canadian lady the next seat over while eagerly trying to capture as much of the surrounding beauty through every means possible. Finally by noon we arrived at the control point for border crossing into Argentina. It was here where we spent the next 3 hrs mostly waiting to get the necessary documents and luggage checked. It boggles the mind the inefficiency of the process for a route frequently traveled. By the time we finally arrive in Mendoza around 6pm, the trip had officially took 9hrs for the 360km from Santiago. 

The next day was cold and rainy as we set to go on our wine tour of Lujan de Cuyo. The tour consisted of four stops with a lunch at one of the vineyards. Our first stop was Alta Vista, a French family owned winery in a historical bodega that was refurbished in 2003. It's specialty included small volume tanks that allowed them to produce their Alto line, a very limited wine crafted from a blend of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon produced from hand picked grapes. In addition the tour took us around the cellars before we sat down for our tasting. Amongst the sampling included the iconic Argentiean white Torrontes, the 2011 Terroir Selection Malbec, the Alizarine and their iconic Alto. All were good, with the Alto being exceptional. Our next stop was Cruzat the only producer of sparkling wine in the region. Though the various sampling were unmemorable we did get to bottle and label our own bottle of rosé.

This was followed by a five course lunch with wine pairing at the famous Ruca Malen. The wine like the courses started off light with Torrontes and progressed on towards Malbec and Cabernet before ending with sparkling. Some of the unique dishes included a goat cheese ice-cream with tomatoes and braise pork with prune chutney. However the absolute star of the meal was the tenderloin steak with mixed grilled vegetables. The aroma of the dish was mouthwatering and the first bite into the succulent steak did not disappoint. The final stop on our tour was a small family owned winery called Mendel. The vineyard paled in comparison to the others in both size and quality of wine. In fact as a final stop it was a little disappointing. To end the day we dined at 1884, supposedly the best restaurant in Mendoza. With this reputation we went in with high expectations and expected to be blown away. The squid salad appetizer with potatoes and quail egg I ordered was good but fell short of exceptional, while the main ribeye course lacked seasoning in both the Chimichurri sauce and steak, though was cooked perfectly.

In short the meal was not quite to the caliber I expected, especially for the price tag. Our final day in Mendoza consisted of a winery tour to Uco Valley, one of the newer regions in the area to produce wine. Our first stop was Pulenta Estate, a beautiful winery situated on the border of Lujan and Uco valley. The winery had many similarities to Alta Vista like their small volume tanks and their massive cellars. In fact walking around the cold dimly lit cellars surrounded by hundreds of thousands of oak barrels was quite a sight.

The following stop couldn't been any more different. La Azul was a small vineyard that specialized more in selling their grapes to other labels than producing their own. What little they did make ranged from table wine Malbec and Cab that were acidic and unbalanced due to never being aged in oak to a very very limited gran reserve. The gran reserve which we tasted straight out the barrel was surprisingly good and could only get better stored for the next decade. The final stop of the day was at O'Fournier where we had a late lunch. Again it was served as a multi course pairing designed to complement the wines. The wines were typical of the region nothing special, the food however were pretty good. As we finished our meal the sun shone through the thick blanket of clouds and for the first time in two days we saw the snow capped mountains in the background and got a glimpse of the true beauty of the land and imagined it at its fullest potential.

Atmosphere: The city of Mendoza was a lot bigger than I'd imagined and at times reminded me of the old districts in Shanghai. The outskirts of the city were surrounded by vine yards while some smaller bogedas blended into the various neighborhoods. All together the one thousand or so vineyards in the area provided a beautiful landscape as you drove into the city.

Food: Steak as Argentina is famously known for has been the core of my diet for the past few days. However it wasn't until now that I learned the locals take their steak well done, almost jerky like. Hence the constant problem of getting steak way over cooked.  Though I've had a few dishes that were pretty good, most steaks so far has been slightly disappointing.

People: Having spent the majority of our time on vine yard tours we really didn't have many encounters with the local. The few wait staff or taxi drivers seemed friendly enough however.

Beauty: Despite the uncommon rainy weather we experienced in the past few days, the vineyards were still quite beautiful. 

Cleanliness: Surpringly clean for a South American city. There were definitely parts of the city that were run down and covered with graffiti. However for the most part it was relatively clean as houses hung their garbage bags on trees for trash day.

Comments: Mendoza was a city I wouldn't have mind staying a few more days. However outside of wine tours I can imagine the city getting old quickly. Perhaps it's better to leave wanting more than the alternative.

Rating: 8

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Chasing the elusive Northern Lights

I'll be the first to admit that despite all there is to see in Iceland, Aurora Borealis was one of my main reasons for this trip. Hence you can imagine my excitement on our first night out. First let me provide some details on how these tours work. Since Aurora is a natural occurring phenomena no one can really predict where or when it will show up. Hence the guides rely on local weather forecast which provides a rough guide as to how likely you will see it each night. Each tour is different and depending on the night and weather they will bring you to various spots outside of Reyjkavik to escape the light pollution of the city. Another thing to point out is that often they are seen first through our cameras. Hence what maybe invisible to the naked eye could actually be the start of it seen from a picture. On our first night of the search (yes there will be multiple nights) the jeep took us riding around on the outskirts of the city. The night was cloudy and despite our best efforts the most we saw was a slight patch of light green. After an hour standing outside in the freezing cold with wind chills that felt like icicles hitting your face we finally called it a night. This was one of my favorites from the batch.


Not easily defeated we tried again the next night. This time we booked with a big tour bus and joined a few hundred people in the search. We were escorted to a little town outside of the city where everyone stood perched on top of a hilltop waiting for this phenomena. Though the sky was perfectly clear with the Milky Way and thousands of other stars lighting up the night, Aurora was still no where to be found. Pretty soon only the most determined of us remained outside hoping to catch even a glimpse. At last it was not our night as the lights were extremely faint. Disappointed we packed up our gears and prepared to head back to the city. Of the night I liked this picture the most.


The tour company has a policy where if you don't see it the first night you are welcome to a second trip free. Now that's pretty good services and we decided to take advantage of it as a last hail Mary. Hence the final night we went we drove further than any other times and arrive an hour and half later near a small waterfall. Again people waited anxiously, gears set up and ready to go. Although it wasn't extremely windy that night, standing outside for a long period of time was still uncomfortable. Just when everyone was about to give up that's when it happened. The light though faint to the naked eye shone as a streak across the whole sky. As pictures were snapped left and right, people that managed to see it on their screens were ecstatic. I couldn't believe my luck and like a giggly little school girl I tried to contained my excitement as I furiously shot away, trying to capture it all. Though the light were "lazy" as the locals called it, for they did not dance around in the sky I was perfectly content to have been able to see it at all!

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Beyond Reykjavik

One of the most famous tour around Iceland is called the Golden Circle, an eight hour tour that brings you to not only the Gullfoss Waterfall but also Strokkur Geyser and Þingvellir national park. At Gullfoss the Hvítá river rushes through and if you're luck enough to be standing on the observation deck on a beautiful sunny day the light shines just enough to make the water and surrounding snow sparkle. Unfortunately the tour's brief stop of 50mins at this very photogenic sight really did it little justice.


Our next stop was the hot spring Strokkur where we joined the already forming groups of people surrounding the geyser waiting for the column of water to shoot up every 4-8 minutes. At times it can reach up to 98 ft into the air and as it is rather difficult to predict it produces quite a thrilling experience. We waiting for numerous rounds until we finally felt content that we saw the best of it.


The last stop and perhaps my favorite was the Þingvellir National Park, where the American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet and are currently pulling apart at a rate of four centimetres per year. This means that unlike other countries in the world that are shrinking, Iceland is actually growing (though at a snail's pace). The landscape at the park was truly a photographer's dream. With beautiful snow covered mountains over looking a crystal blue lake, its beauty was further accentuated by the soft glow of the setting sun. There couldn't have been a better time to be there and experience the country natural beauty.


What trip to Iceland is complete without a stop to the blue lagoon. This famous geothermal spa is one of the most visited attraction in the country and for good reasons.


The water temperature is an average of 98–102 °F, which on a day like the one we went where outside temperatures were a balmy 36 °F was a welcoming change. However the initial shock of the cold hitting your skin as you came running out of the building into the water was pretty brutal no matter how short it may be. Once in the water the constant steam rising from the surface provided a further mystical appearance. With the snow capped mountain in the background and lava rocks all around this place was truly unique. (Not to mention the minerals in the water did wonders for my skin!)


Our last tour on this trip was to the southern coast. Due to the rugged terrine of the area we went by a private jeep. The all terrine Land Rover managed to drive through a pretty brutal snow storm in the morning where in certain areas visibility was nearly null.


As we drove through the icy roads and shallow streams the surrounding views were truly breathtaking. All around everything was covered in a fresh white coat of snow, and with no one in sight it provided the feeling of a thrilling adventure. Shortly after we came across Myrdalsjokull glacier, the wind was so strong at the time that it was hard to really trek anywhere far. However being out in a mini blizzard on top of a glacier was good enough for me.


Next we made a stop at the beautiful Seljalandsfoss, where you can climb up and stand behind the plummeting waterfall. The water drops 200 ft over the cliffs and from behind it it's hard to ignore its sheer strength.


The weather in Iceland is extremely unpredictable and by early afternoon the sun managed to break its way through the clouds. As the warm rays shone down upon the powdery mountains it instantly changed the dynamics of the land. In a mere moment what was frigid and frozen seem cheery and bright. By the time we made our way onto the black sand beach the weather couldn't have been any better as the powerful Atlantic surf pounded the beach. The sky was a deep hue of blue filled with seagulls swarming above the cliff.


Hard to imagine that just hours ago we were in a snow storm. The last stop of this tour was the mighty Skogafoss waterfall, which given the way the setting sun hits the mist produces an amazing rainbow at the right times. Today it did not disappoint, as the rainbow was visible as soon as we pulled up. The strong rays of the setting sun was angled perfectly and provided a splendid ending to the day!

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A Taste of Reykjavik in the Winter

Today was our first day in Iceland and weather was anything but cooperative. After arriving extremely early we checked into our hotel and took a brief nap. By the time we woke and left at noon the city was already bright though not a glimpse of sunlight could be found. Walking around downtown the city was quiet and dreary, probably because it was Sunday. Most shops were closed as we walked by on our way to Hallgrimskirkja, the tallest building in Iceland. The exterior of this church is concrete, inspired by the distinctive basalt formations found throughout the country while the inside had a modern Gothic feel. Up top on the tower a complete view of the city center was visible and on a clear day one can even see the mountains across the water. On this particular day however the wind was so strong that spending more than five minutes up there became unbearable. To warm up we decided to head to Kaffitar, Reykjavik's answer to Starbucks.




So as the wind and snow blew angrily outside we sat warm and comfortable in this quaint little cafe sipping our espresso and cappuccino. By dinner time the wind somehow managed to get even louder as we made our walk towards a nearby seafood hut. Sægreifinn, otherwise known as the "The Sea Baron" came recommended by many including the NY times. Their famous lobster soup along with whale kabobs were suggested as the must tries. While both wasn't bad I was equally disappointed in them. The lobster soup was quite ordinary with the exception of the few pieces of lobsters that were tender. The whale though just as lean as I remembered was unfortunately bland even with the dipping sauce provided.




In addition the kabobs of Blue Ling and Plaice both tasted similar though the Plaice was slightly more chewy. At the end of the day the meal was definitely not worth the hefty price tag it came with! All in all for a first day in Iceland I was yet to be impressed. Day two in Reykjavik produced slightly better weather. In the morning what remained of last night's storm was making its way out of the city. As light rain drizzled outside we took a leisurely stroll through the city center. With no real pressing plans or schedules to follow we found ourselves wondering around window shopping and stopping often for coffee breaks. It wasn't the most productive of days but perhaps on a trip that's just the point. By late afternoon the clouds started to break up and slivers of light made its way through as we stood at the famous hotdog stand enjoying a much anticipated hotdog. This place is often claimed by many to be the best in all of Europe. What makes their dog stand out some say is the remoulade sauce on top, though I personally think it's the fried onion crunch on the bottom. Either way it was pretty tasty.


In the next few days weather turned in our favor as the sun came out and temperatures rose. We took this opportunity to wonder the city seeking out as many of the city's good restaurants as possible. We were quite surprised how many there actually were. For an early Valentine's dinner we went to one of the highest praised restaurants in the city, The Fish Market. There we proceeded to order the nine course tasting menu which consisted of minke whale, goose salad and Icelandic lamb just to name a few dishes. As if that wasn't enough food we also decided to try the puffin, a cute local bird that tasted like a gamier version of duck. Everything was exquisite and each component of the dish produced flavors that married perfectly with each other.











If that was our best meal of the trip I would have been completely content. However the city had much more to offer as we soon found out. Having been on a search for the BEST burger for a while we decided to make a day of it here also. For lunch we stopped by a family friendly cafe called Laundromat and had a taste of Iceland's burger. At first bite the meat was juicy and flavorful, cooked medium well served on a lightly toasted bun. The steak fries on the side with mayo added a further level of enjoyment to the meal.




All in all we were pretty impressed so imagine our delight when we found another place which was voted around the world as having the best burger. The Hamborgarbúllan otherwise known as the Burgerjoint is situated on a little street corner in an inconspicuous building. Once inside the decor was equally unpretentious and remained me of dive bars back in the states. However the delicious smell of grilled patties instantly confirmed the hype as we waited, salivating in anticipation. When we finally dug our teeth into the burger it only took that one bite to know this was truly worth the wait. In fact I think I may have just found the BEST burger ever!




Rating:
Atmosphere: This small city of 220,00 people was in many ways similar to their larger counterparts in other countries in Europe. The streets were clean, lined with colorful houses as if all were built out of Legos. On a day with good weather the air was fresh and crisp making walking around the city center quiet enjoyable.
Beauty: Though the city itself I wouldn't exactly call beautiful, the surrounding mountains and sea added an aesthetic element to it. What I did find absolutely stunning was the remaining landscape of the country and the sheer contrast it provided. In a matter of 30 miles you can go from a glacier to a black sand beach with many waterfalls in the middle.
Cleanliness: The whole time I was here I couldn't recall one piece of trash on the streets nor did I see anyone littering. What was surprising was the amount of street arts on the walls though most were more artistic than typical graffiti.
Food: The first few meals here were easily forgettable and looking back I wished we would have skipped those. Luckily we managed to find the gems of the city which completely altered my perception of food here. In fact it's almost sad that burgers and hotdogs, the so called foods of America is being made better elsewhere!
People: Polite though not overly friendly. The babies however were absolutely adorable with their fair complexion and chubby pink cheeks. Each had a pacifier in their mouth sucking away happily and starring all around with their inquisitive blue eyes.
Overall: This trip had many pleasant surprises. In the end it was pretty well balanced with its shares of adventures and rest. Even with the unexpected delay on our return home due to storm Nemo, we spent them happily in the city relaxing at various cafes during the day and experiencing the bars at night.
Scale: 1-10 = 7

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Paro and its famous Tiger's Nest

What trip to Bhutan is finished without seeing the amazing Taktsang Palphug Monastery also known as Tiger's Nest. Located on the edge of a cliff in Paro valley 3,120 meters up, the journey takes about 2-2.5 hrs to reach by foot and is one of the most important temple in Buddhism. According to legend it is said that the Guru Rinpoche flown here on the back of a tigress. He then proceeded to meditated in a cave for three months and emerged in eight incarnated forms. The original monastery was built in 1692, however in 1998 it suffered a devastating fire of unknown origin. Speculation is that the fire was caused either by incenses or an overturned butter lamp. Everything was destroyed except the statue of the second buddha. Reconstruction was completed in 2005 based upon old photographs and diaries, though there was little documentation of the wall paintings and other artwork housed inside. The trail itself is pretty manageable and offered very scenic views of the pine forrest and the valley below. At the first rest stop where the monastery was visible for the first time, the sight was truly incredible. Just when you felt like you were never going to reach the end, you were rewarded with the most breathtaking view of them all directly across the monastery. From there it was a mere 20mins away. However due to my vertigo I had apprehensions about this last leg of the path which consisted of 900 steps up and down the side of the cliff. Luckily railings has been recently added due to a fatal accident with a Japanese tourist a few years back.


However it really wasn't bad at all, in fact once I reached that part I hardly noticed the height. Perhaps it was my fatigue or just the anxiousness of finally seeing the monastery. Inside photography was not allowed due to the sacred nature of the complex itself. There are a total of eight temples with four being easy to access. All the temples are connected by stairs built into the rocks. There are also balconies which provides beautiful views of Paro below. Aside from Tiger's Nest, Paro's Rinpung Dzong is also worth a visit. Built from stone instead of clay, this dzong is smaller in size with only two courtyards. Once inside it offers a panoramic view of the city. In the late afternoon the valley sparkles as the sun hits the rooftops.


In the land of many temples and dzongs what better way to conclude our Bhutan trip than to visit one last temple. Kyichu Lhakhang is one of the oldest temple in the country built in the 7th century. Built by the Tibetan Emperor Songsten Gampo, it is considered to be one of the 108 border taming temples he built. However like many buildings it was also burnt down and rebuilt. There has also been many extensions with the latest done in 1965.


Rating:
Atmosphere: Small roads, rice patty fields and houses with stones to hold down the roof, that is the essence of Paro. Though that may not sound like much, the town instead feels immensely rich due to their faith and culture. Watching the sun disappear over the mountains for a brief second I felt content.


Beauty: I'll be the first to admit I don't find any pleasure in trekking. Instead I much prefer to be driven up. However in cases like this when walking or horse back are the only options I will gladly do it. Not for the satisfaction of the walk itself but for that absolutely spectacular view at the end, which definitely did not disappoint!


Cleanliness: It surprises me how a 3rd world country can be so clean. People here actually follows the rules and use the trash basket, how refreshing.
Food: Still yet to try authentic Bhutanese food, which based on what the guides said are not what we have been served. Apparently Bhutanese people don't actually drink soup or use utensils, I feel cheated!
People: Friendly like the previous cities. Also the guys don't stare at you or make rude comments! Nor do they try to talk to you in an inappropriate manner!
Comments: Bhutan has been a treat at the end of this trip. I was a little bummed Tibet fell through, but I couldn't have asked for a better alternative!

Scale: 1-10 = 8

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The Old Capital - Phunaka

On route to Phunaka on a clear sunny day you are rewarded with one of the most spectacular views of the Himalaya. Since the country has one road in and out of Thimphu in order to travel to Phunaka you will pass by the famous Dochula Pass. It is there where you will find the Druk Wangyal Khangzang, a cluster of 108 stupa built in a circle that spirals up to one big stupa in the middle. It was a tribute to the selfless service and visionary leadership of the 4th King, and is now a sacred legacy to the nation and its people.


Aside from the beauty of the stupas itself, it is also situated on a mound that yields a breathtaking view of the snow capped Himalayan mountain peaks in the background. As the white clouds drifts across and the sun shined through the view was truly beyond words. Around the stupa are numerous prayer flags that people place to have their prayers spread by the winds.


Once in Phunaka we visited the famous Dzong which is the second oldest and second largest dzong in Bhutan. This beautiful Dzong is used for all important ceremonies of the country including the 5th king's coronation and wedding. It stands at a total of six-stories tall with a central tower and a scenic mountainous background. Surrounded by Pho Chu and Mo Chu the two rivers meets together at the dzong with one bridge that links it to the nearby town.





Inside, the buildings are again divided half for administration and half for religion. The first courtyard consisted of mainly administrative offices along with a Bodhi Tree. while the second courtyard is reserved for the residence of the monks. The third and final courtyard contains the chapel which was used for the royal ceremonies and was impressive in both size and beauty. In addition, next door lays the remains of Pema Lingpa and Zhanbdrung Ngawang Namgyal which is accessible only by the king and the senior religious leader.


The next morning we started the day with a trek through the local village to see Chimi Lhakhang, otherwise known as The Temple of Fertility. It is often believed that couples who has been having problems conceiving, if they pray and sleep at this temple they will be blessed with a child.


The trail through the fields to the temple takes about 45mins where on the way you see the locals at work. The view once on top of the hill yields the whole valley below and is one of the most serene and peaceful sights around.


Rating:
Atmosphere: Unlike Thimphu which is considered busy for Bhutan's standards, Phunaka and its surrounding towns are extremely calm. At night after sunset everything is still and the only sounds to be heard is the wind and rain hitting the windows.
Beauty: I have come to realize that Dzongs are all relatively the same on the inside. What differentiates them is the location and setting. The one in Phunaka for example is exceptionally beautiful since it sits perched on a hill, surrounded by the rivers.
Cleanliness: Like Thimphu, Phunaka's roads are also pretty clean. The air on the mountain was so fresh and clean I wondered how I was going to go back to Nepal!
Food: For the most part food has not been the highlight of this trip. Not to say that it wasn't good, it just wasn't special. Though the tour guide did say that traditional Bhutanese food is very spicy it however has been tamed down for the tourists. Another aspect of their food I found extremely interesting is the use of cheese in mixed vegetable dishes. The result is almost like the US version of cheese and broccoli and equally not good.
People: I find the people extremely nice and innocent. Not sure if it's the culture or their limited interactions with foreigners. Either way they have definitely added to the wonder experience and it also speaks a lot of the country.
Comment: Though Phunaka was much smaller than I'd expect spending one night in the area was nice. The highlight of the area is definitely the view of the mountain ranges and should definitely be a priority to see. If possible have lunch nearby, there is one restaurant just down the road from the 108 stupas, the food was ok but the view was worth the trip.

Scale 1-10 = 7.5

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Land of the Thunder Dragon: Bhutan (Thimphu)

When I think of Bhutan my mind draws a blank. Aside from knowing that the country is extremely controlled for tourism I have to admit there not much more I can say. Nested between Nepal, India and China, this tiny country is often thought of as a mystery by many. With a population of only 700,000, the country is perhaps one of the last true Shangri-La remaining. Flights from Kathmandu to Paro runs once a day, three times a week on Drukair, their national airline. As soon as you land you immediately notice a difference between this country and those surrounding it. Majority of Bhutan is still covered in forests with rolling hills which provides for not only a beautiful landscape but also some of the freshest air in the region. From the airport the nation's capital Thimphu is a mere 30 mins drive away. Along the way the roads were quiet and clean, though to be fair the tour guy did say they were just built four years ago. We stopped shortly at one of the country's first iron bridge. The original was swept away by the flood, but it was rebuilt to leave as a reminder for future generations. Walking across the bridge I was slightly hesitant as the only thing holding the bottom was thin entangled wires and bamboo sticks.


Next we saw Trashi Chhoe Dzong, the office of government officials and the current king. It accommodates both the monastic and civil bodies and is situated directly across the 5th king's current resident and the national assembly. Dzongs are a distinctive type of fortress found in Bhutan and Tibet only. Currently there are twenty in Bhutan, one in each district. They are typically massive in size and this one consists of an outer structure that is two stories high with a three-story tower in the center. Upon entering the courtyard you are greeted by colorful murals and detailed architect on the exterior of the buildings. The rooms inside are allocated half to administrative function and half to religious function, primarily a temple and housing for monks.





The following morning we woke up to a beautiful sunny day, as our tour started at The National Memorial Chorten. This temple was built by the mother of the 3rd king in his memory. The large white stupa is designed is a Tibetan style chorten, and is decorated with golden spires and bells. It attracts many elderly Bhutanese on a daily basis who circumambulate the chorten, whirling prayer wheels while praying. Often they do this for hours at a time breaking only for lunch which is brought or donated to them.


Another amazing sight of the city is the Statue of Sakyamuni Buddha, built on top of a hill it sits 51.5 meters high. It was donated by Thailand, Singapore and Taiwan. Though it's surrounding is currently still under construction to build a park and restaurant the statue itself is completed and amazing.


From there we proceeded to Changangkha Lhakhang, one of the oldest temples in the Thimphu Valley. The temple was built in the 15th century and dedicated to the Buddhist emanation of compassion. Many bring their kids here to receive blessings for good health. Like other temples around, this old fortresslike temple houses large prayer wheels which spun has the same effect as orally reciting the prayers.


In the afternoon we stop to watch a local friendly dart game (khuru). Unlike the darts in our country theses are massive in size and made from wood with the target about 10 to 20 meters away. When one team hits the wood target, a dance is performed along with singing to celebrate. It was extremely interesting to watch and provided a more in depth view into the locals' daily lives.


Rating:
Atmosphere: What a difference in culture and life style. Aside from the roads being more peaceful, the valley of Thimphu from the hills offered views most only dreamt of. With beautiful mountains in the background, the city is nested below peacefully surrounded by charming temples and grand Dzong. As I admire it all, I slowly came to understand the nation's concept of measuring wealth based on "gross national happiness"!


Beauty: From the temples to the Dzong everything in the city offered a sense of purity and simplicity. This country unlike others I've visited seems frozen in time, where people are still honest, culture is still cherished and the environment is preserved.
Cleanliness: It is obvious the pride of the people in their nation. Not only are the streets clean and no one litters, but for the first time in weeks I can truly breathe.
Food: The food closely resembles Chinese food but with a little more chili. In fact walking around the local market I was amazed at the amount of red chili used. Most of the food however was very good, one thing I did not find appealing though was butter tea. Don't let the pretty pink color fool you, the drink is salty and extremely creamy due to the butter.





People: Very friendly, in fact most will wave and smile as you go by. They are happy to have their photos taken and won't ask you for money in return. At the stores they are not aggressive and won't hassle you to make a purchase.
Comment: Though the country is slightly more modern than what I had expected, for the most part it has met expectation. I was surprised to see ATMs available however given their modest airport and lack of any traffic light in the whole county. Another very refreshing element of the country is their love for their king, whom based on everything I've heard is a pretty great king. Rare indeed.

Scale: 1-10 = 7.5

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