Land of the Thunder Dragon: Bhutan (Thimphu)

When I think of Bhutan my mind draws a blank. Aside from knowing that the country is extremely controlled for tourism I have to admit there not much more I can say. Nested between Nepal, India and China, this tiny country is often thought of as a mystery by many. With a population of only 700,000, the country is perhaps one of the last true Shangri-La remaining. Flights from Kathmandu to Paro runs once a day, three times a week on Drukair, their national airline. As soon as you land you immediately notice a difference between this country and those surrounding it. Majority of Bhutan is still covered in forests with rolling hills which provides for not only a beautiful landscape but also some of the freshest air in the region. From the airport the nation's capital Thimphu is a mere 30 mins drive away. Along the way the roads were quiet and clean, though to be fair the tour guy did say they were just built four years ago. We stopped shortly at one of the country's first iron bridge. The original was swept away by the flood, but it was rebuilt to leave as a reminder for future generations. Walking across the bridge I was slightly hesitant as the only thing holding the bottom was thin entangled wires and bamboo sticks.


Next we saw Trashi Chhoe Dzong, the office of government officials and the current king. It accommodates both the monastic and civil bodies and is situated directly across the 5th king's current resident and the national assembly. Dzongs are a distinctive type of fortress found in Bhutan and Tibet only. Currently there are twenty in Bhutan, one in each district. They are typically massive in size and this one consists of an outer structure that is two stories high with a three-story tower in the center. Upon entering the courtyard you are greeted by colorful murals and detailed architect on the exterior of the buildings. The rooms inside are allocated half to administrative function and half to religious function, primarily a temple and housing for monks.





The following morning we woke up to a beautiful sunny day, as our tour started at The National Memorial Chorten. This temple was built by the mother of the 3rd king in his memory. The large white stupa is designed is a Tibetan style chorten, and is decorated with golden spires and bells. It attracts many elderly Bhutanese on a daily basis who circumambulate the chorten, whirling prayer wheels while praying. Often they do this for hours at a time breaking only for lunch which is brought or donated to them.


Another amazing sight of the city is the Statue of Sakyamuni Buddha, built on top of a hill it sits 51.5 meters high. It was donated by Thailand, Singapore and Taiwan. Though it's surrounding is currently still under construction to build a park and restaurant the statue itself is completed and amazing.


From there we proceeded to Changangkha Lhakhang, one of the oldest temples in the Thimphu Valley. The temple was built in the 15th century and dedicated to the Buddhist emanation of compassion. Many bring their kids here to receive blessings for good health. Like other temples around, this old fortresslike temple houses large prayer wheels which spun has the same effect as orally reciting the prayers.


In the afternoon we stop to watch a local friendly dart game (khuru). Unlike the darts in our country theses are massive in size and made from wood with the target about 10 to 20 meters away. When one team hits the wood target, a dance is performed along with singing to celebrate. It was extremely interesting to watch and provided a more in depth view into the locals' daily lives.


Rating:
Atmosphere: What a difference in culture and life style. Aside from the roads being more peaceful, the valley of Thimphu from the hills offered views most only dreamt of. With beautiful mountains in the background, the city is nested below peacefully surrounded by charming temples and grand Dzong. As I admire it all, I slowly came to understand the nation's concept of measuring wealth based on "gross national happiness"!


Beauty: From the temples to the Dzong everything in the city offered a sense of purity and simplicity. This country unlike others I've visited seems frozen in time, where people are still honest, culture is still cherished and the environment is preserved.
Cleanliness: It is obvious the pride of the people in their nation. Not only are the streets clean and no one litters, but for the first time in weeks I can truly breathe.
Food: The food closely resembles Chinese food but with a little more chili. In fact walking around the local market I was amazed at the amount of red chili used. Most of the food however was very good, one thing I did not find appealing though was butter tea. Don't let the pretty pink color fool you, the drink is salty and extremely creamy due to the butter.





People: Very friendly, in fact most will wave and smile as you go by. They are happy to have their photos taken and won't ask you for money in return. At the stores they are not aggressive and won't hassle you to make a purchase.
Comment: Though the country is slightly more modern than what I had expected, for the most part it has met expectation. I was surprised to see ATMs available however given their modest airport and lack of any traffic light in the whole county. Another very refreshing element of the country is their love for their king, whom based on everything I've heard is a pretty great king. Rare indeed.

Scale: 1-10 = 7.5