The Holy City of Varanasi

What an night I had trying to get to Varanasi! The original plan was to catch a 11:20pm train out from a station near Agra and arrive in Varanasi in about 7 hours. Little did I know that Indian trains are hardly on time and often with no explanation as to why or when it will actually arrive. In addition, not only was the station dirty, ill equipped and lagging even the tiniest technology but even the ac sleeper sections on the trains left much to be desired. To make matters worst there were no foreigners at the station but me and that was most likely the case on the train. As I waited there for an hour and a half I saw locals jam into luggage compartments of their train or simply just hang off the steps as the train rolled away.


By the time I saw my second Guinea Pig sized rat I decided I simply couldn't go through with the train. Not to mention the guide said this train has been known to arrive 12 hrs later than scheduled, and with no English announcement on the train who knew if I would even get off at the right stop! So in a split second decision I decided to jumped back into my car that was planning to head to Delhi and told the driver to bring me to the airport instead. After all any price on a last minute ticket would be better than getting lost in India!
By 3pm the next day covered in mosquito bites I finally arrived in Varanasi. I soon realized that aside from the sacred Ganges (Ganga) River it is also an extremely holy place in Buddhism. Sarnath, the site of the deer park is where Buddha gave his first sermon and thereby founded Buddhism. The remains of Chaukhandi Stupa commemorating the spot where Buddha met his first disciples and is symbolized today by an octagonal tower.


Many Buddhist monks comes on a pilgrimage to pay respect. The following morning I took a sunrise boat ride on the Ganga and watched as locals bathed and prayed in the holy water by the ghats.


There are nearly 100 ghats along the river, as the Ganga is 2,525 kilometer long, flowing from the Himalayas to Bangladesh. Each ghat has a name and story with temples devoted to various gods, however there are five especially important ones, Dasaswamedh Ghat, Manikarnika Ghat, Harischandra Ghat, Kabir Ghat and Assi Ghat. As we rowed down the river we approach the Manikarnika Ghat, one of two ghats that allows for cremation. From a distance you could see the fire blazing fearlessly as a ceremony was being held.


It takes a total of 3-4 hrs before the body is burnt down to a miniature size and then placed back into the water. The final ashes are left remaining on the ghats in piles, which eventually gets swept away into the river during monsoon season. This holy process is done in hopes that the deceased proceeds to heaven. From beginning to end the process is quiet expensive for locals as it costs around three to four thousand rupees to purchase the wood used.


As day break approached, the sun began it's ascend above the horizon, filling the sky with a deep rich orange glow. The water rippled from the oars of the boats and provided a stunning reflection like thousands of glittering gems. It was easy to get lost in its beauty and for a moment forget the poverty and suffering of the surroundings.


We landed at Scindia ghats which house the Leaning Temple of Shiva and proceeded thru to the narrow streets of the old town. The roads were built pre- British era where bikes and walking was the mode of transportation hence some of the roads were barely wide enough to fit through two ways. At every twist and turn there were shrines and temples built next to houses, some placed so discretely that they were easily missed. As you stroll through the streets it's often common to share the road with cows passing by, just another day in India!
Rating:
Atmosphere: The city was a lot less hectic than others I've visited. In fact for a city of three million the roads were fairly quiet and empty.
Beauty: I wouldn't necessarily describe the city as beautiful but definitely more spiritual.
Cleanliness: Even though the Ganga is a running river, the idea of cremation, bathing and drinking the same water turns my stomach. How there aren't more people getting sick is mind boggling.
Food: The Murgh Maharaja I ate was delicious. The dish contained morsels of chicken stewed in almond gravy flavored with saffron. It was topped off with a thin layer of egg which added to the texture of the dish. Though the dish may not be authentic to Varanasi it was still one of the best I've had in India.


People: Nothing that stood out or is worthy of special comment.
Comments: Varanasi was an exceptional city when you are lucky enough to see sunrise on the Ganga. The site of locals praying in the river was unlike anything you would see in the country. However aside from that there really wasn't much more the city had to offer. Spending one full day in the city is more than enough to get everything done and experience the city. And a final word of advice, always fly in!

Rating: 1-10 = 6.5