Exploring Kathmandu

After a week in India, I was excited to head to Kathmandu. It was fairly easy to obtain a visa on arrival and within half an hour I was out the airport and ready to go. The airport itself was a little shabby to be the capital's international airport however once outside I was pleasantly surprised. Though the country is clearly a third world country, it was much more organized and well ran than India. In fact the roads were cleaner, the cars honked less and people much much nicer! Walking around Thamel there were sovereign shops all around. You could find anything ranging from a bag made from rice sacks to various spices and Nepalese wall art. It was truly a shoppers paradise. Walking around we stumbled across a Nepalese temple, the third highest in the city. It was situated in an unimposing location, surrounded by local kids just running around playing. It was interesting to see how people have made it a normal part of their everyday life. Further down was Asan Tole, where you could find various spices and groceries being sold by street vendors. The neighborhood was bustling even at night as many visited the nearby Temple of Wealth. Dinner was at this popular restaurant called Nepali Chulo, where the menu consisted of two fixed set, vegetarian and non veg. Though the price was a little hefty, it was catered towards tourist as it also came with a show of Nepalese dancing. The food itself was pretty good and resembled more of Chinese food than Indian, but slightly spicer. My favorite was the wild boar and the creamy lentil sauce that accompanied the dishes.


For a first day in Nepal I couldn't ask for more and was already starting to like the city. The next day we visited Boudha, Kathmandu's tallest Tibetan Buddhist temple. This famous white temple is 36 meters high with the iconic eye at the top. As you walk around the stupa clockwise, the ever seeing eye seems to follow you.


The plaza itself is also very interesting, as shops and restaurants circles the temple it almost feels like a little city of its own inside. The walkways was very clean with monks walking around and praying. We sat for lunch on the terrace of this quaint little momo house. Momos are Nepalese dumplings often made with veggies or chicken/buffalo meat. The food was fantastic, the noodle soups were very tasty despite it only have a few pieces of chicken. However the momos were the highlight of the meal. The Buffalo momos were extremely savory on the inside with the skin being the perfect balance of soft and chewiness. The spicy dipping sauce that accompanied it was just heavenly.


After lunch we stopped by Pashupatinath an important Hindu temple devoted to the god Shiva. The vast difference between the two temples was felt as soon as we entered. Aside from the obvious difference in architectural design and religious symbols, this temple felt more rugged and neglected. Everywhere you looked there were wild monkeys running around and people begging for money. In fact you couldn't take two steps without someone coming up trying to be your tour guide or take photos for money. The whole point of the holy temple seem to have gotten lost in the process. One could hardly believe there could be two temple of such vast difference within a few kilometers from each other.


Day three in Kathmandu started with a cooking class on momo. The class offered by Socialtours is just one of many offered in their Cook Like A Local series. It's a 3 hr class that starts around 10:30 and takes you from the local market to their local kitchen. Though the kitchen was modest in both size and supplies it is often used to prepare food for parties and tour guests. We started from scratch and made both the fillings and the wrappers. By the end of the course we learned everything one would need to learn to make momos at home!



As our stomachs were filled with these yummy momo, our next stop was Swayambhu or otherwise known as Monkey Temple. From the bottom there are 365 steps up the temple, with both sides filled with souvenir vendors. The temple is probably the most sacred among Buddhist pilgrimage sites and second only to Boudha for followers of Tibetan Buddhism.


Once in the temple, there were kids running around asking for money. Its really sad to see people use religious places in such a way and it somewhat detracts from the experience and enjoyment of the place. Lastly we went to Durbar Square, the heart of Kathmandu Valley. The area is filled with many temples most of which you can climb up to get a better view of the detailed Newari craftsmanship.


To complete our amazing time in Kathmandu the last day we went to the Garden of Dream. The garden is only a few minutes walk from the madness of Thamel yet inside it seems like millions miles away. With fountains and beautiful pavilions throughout, this garden is used by locals for family outings and young couples on dates. The architect had an European inspired feel and walking around provided a refreshing and serene feeling, showing this busy city in a whole new light.


Rating:
Atmosphere: Despite the crowded streets and lack of traffic lights, the city was somehow more pleasant to walk around then the cities in India. Cars were slightly more organized and crossing the streets were slightly more manageable. However as can be expected the city was extremely polluted and after a long day of wondering the streets you return covered in dirty and dust.
Beauty: Though there wasn't one specific monument or temple that stood out for the city, as a whole Kathmandu was very interesting architecturally. Many buildings in the streets has beautifully carved windows with extremely intricate designs.


In addition the area around Boudha Stupa is truly a site worth seeing.
Cleanliness: I realized that one of the reason why the streets are so dirty is because it's hard to find a trash can anywhere. Even on the main streets they are non existent and trash simply piles up on the sidewalks.
Food: Though Nepali food is rather similar to Indian food, I found it to be slightly better. Most food are spicy due to amount of red peppers used. Other spices commonly found are cumin, coriander, fenugreek, turmeric and chili. My favorite dishes are the Mutton Curry and Buffalo momo.


People: I was amazed by how friendly the people here are. Many will stop to help you find your way if you seem lost and unlike India they don't ask for money afterwards. The people definitely added to the pleasant experience.
Comment: This city was a great change from India. Despite the hustle and bustle that comes with a big city it still offered a quaint unique feel. Between the touristy atmosphere in Thamel, the old town feel in Durbar Square and the fancy chic stores on Kings' Road the city had something to offer for everyone.

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