Agra, home of the Taj Mahal

The Taj Mahal, one of the seven wonders in the world is visited by millions every year. People from every corner of the globe travels here to see its beauty and hear the story that inspired it. At six in the morning as the sun was beginning to rise, I started my drive into the complex. Though it was barely day break the line waiting to enter was already forming. As with most attractions, tourists and locals are separated when waiting to enter, however I found the sign both amusing and slightly offensive to the locals.


I guess since we tourists pay 750 rps vs the 20 rps locals pay our value has increased. Once inside, you are greeted by the entrance gate which itself is massive in size.


The carvings and decor found on this red gate are identical to those later seen on the Taj. As you walk through the gate and squeeze by the numerous crowds of tour groups fighting to take photos, you are at once face to face with the legendary Taj Mahal. Situated at the end of a long fountain strip, there are identical walkways on both sides. It sits elevated on a platform at the end dominating and towering everything around it.


From every corner of the garden a spectacular vantage point is present. As the early morning sunlight reflects off the white marble, the monument shines with a warm golden hue. Up close you can see the detailed engravings on the walls filled with flowers and passages from the Koran. There are also twenty-two small domes at the top of the gate signifying the number of years the monument took to build.


Inside the mausoleum, the size of the monument is rather deceiving as only two coffins laid side by side in the center. However what most may not know is that the actual coffin lay under ground in the basement where the true size of the monument can be felt. It was also said that the emperor had plans to built a second Taj in black marble to be used as his burial site across the water so the two can be directly facing each other. However when his son heard of this, he thought him mad, and locked him up, so the complex was never finished aside from the base foundation.


In addition to the Taj, Agra is also home to Agra Fort, the second biggest fort in India and the model for the Red Fort in Delhi.


This fort like others I've seen in India consisted of courtyards within courtyards for a total of 94 acres of sculpted garden and marble shrines. Though by now the idea of it was no longer unique, what was impressive about this fort is its sheer size and magnitude. Like many Mughal architect, it also contained the intricate carvings and gems embedded on the wall along with the delicate arched patterns that supported the structure.





The last site in Agra I visited was I'Timad-Ud-Daulah otherwise known as Baby Taj. This monument built by an empress in her father's memory had a slight resemblance to the Taj but was obviously much smaller in scale.What I found interesting was how deserted and poorly maintained the site was despite the fact that it's beauty would have been boasted by any other city that housed it. I guess in the shadow of the real Taj Mahal I can see how many would found it redundant.


Now of course the Taj is THE monument people come to see in Agra if not all of India. However nearby there is another complex not to be missed. The Fatehpur Sikri was built in the beginning of 1500 by the Mughal Emperor Akbar. The actual grounds of the complex sits on a rocky ridge and is divided into two parts. The first is the courtyard and royal housing.


The king at the time had three wives, one Hindi, one Muslim and one Christian, each with their own room. However it was the Hindi wife that bore him a son, hence she became the favorite and her resident hall was larger than the other two. The second part of this massive complex is the Jama Masjid. It was built in the manner of Indian mosques and house the body of the Holy Man, whose blessing the king received shortly before producing a heir.


Even today it is said that if you visit his grave and place upon it a shawl you will be granted up to three wishes that is sure to come true. Now all this sounds a little gimmicky to me, but by the looks of the people waiting in line to place their shawl I'd say they are not short of believers.

Rating:
Atmosphere: The town of Agra is pretty run down with the building half torn apart and wild monkeys climbing all over. In fact it is not uncommon to see cows, goats or even boars walking the streets. Small children no older than six going home from school are subject to walk in the streets as the limited sidewalks are occupied by street vendors. As motorbikes and rickshaws narrowly graze by it becomes hard to watch as disapproving looks are given to these kids for moving too slowly. Based on these sad situations one would never guess the city housed the nation's gem.
People: Given the touristy nature of the city, most people are extremely aggressive to offer you their products or ask for money. This soon became extremely aggravating and took away from the delight of the city.
Food: Surprising I had some of the best Indian dishes so far in Agra, which one wouldn't suspected given how most restaurants are catered to tourists. Perhaps when it comes to Indian food I much prefer it tailored to Western's taste bud instead of the real thing. Either way, the Chicken Tikka Masala and Shahi Mutton Do Pyaza (mutton stew) was superb.


Cleanliness: There was nothing clean about the city. The streets were filled with trash piles, the houses worn down, and small children were begging on the streets everywhere. Only in India would you be stuck in traffic due to a pack of buffalo crossing!
Beauty: This category made up for everything else the city lacked. Not only was the beauty of Taj Mahal breathtaking but Agra Fort and Sikri was also quite a sight. Having seen many wonders around the world, some came as a disappointment, however the Taj was everything people claimed and more. I can't even fathom the splendor of a second Taj had the emperor succeeded.
Comment: So far this trip has proven to be more difficult than any other I've taken with all of the last minute changes and alterations. However India is truly a country like no other housing so much culture, but it's sad to think that many wouldn't get to see it due to its poor infrastructure and living conditions.

Scale: 1-10 = 8