Feb 18, 2016

The Dynamic Landscape of the Big Island

The difference in the Big Island from Oahu is night and day. The drive from the airport showed nothing but black boulders and dry grassy shrubs on either side. Cars were far and few as I drove down the one lane road towards the hotel in Kona. The first stop on the island was Kealakekua Bay,  where Capital Cook set foot leading to the first extensive contact between Hawaiians and Westerners. The area best know for snorkeling, was beautiful even on land with its rocky coastlines and palm trees dotting the sides.

We woke up the next day to perfect sunny weather as we leisurely drove through the southern coast bringing us to the famous Punalu'u Bakery. The mouthwatering aroma of freshly baked pastries greeted us as soon as we entered the parking lot and the taro malasadas was one of the best things I've ever eaten. 





A short drive down the road was Punalu'us' black sand beach, which was formed from lava flowing into the ocean and cooling. The jet black sand was an unique sight, one I've only seen once before in Iceland. The main attraction of the day was Volcanoe National Park where we spent the next few hours taking the drive down Crater of Rim. The obvious highlight was the volcanic fumes emitting from Kilauea volcano, which at night glowed with an reddish hue.
If you were lucky you were able to catch glimpse of lava spitting from within. Having never seen an active volcano it was quite intriguing. My other favorite part of the park was Devastation trail, where the one mile hike round trip highlighted the extent of damage caused by an eruption. The barren looking trail resembled more of an desert than rain forest. 



Day 3 on the island was dedicated to the north end. We started the day with a quick stop at Tex Drive In on our way to Akaka Falls. Their malasada which they claim to be the best in the world reminded me more of donuts than the prior ones, with a slightly better dough. Overall I didn't find it impressive. The walk through Akaka falls afterwards was the perfect way to burn it off.  The fall itself was underwhelming while the surrounding rain forest covered in bamboo and exotic flowers was the real highlight. Our next stop was Waipeo lookout, one of the most beautiful place I've seen.  The warm afternoon sun lit up the sacred valley below while the beach and mountains off to the side further intensified the dramatic effect. We finished the day with a view of the sunset at the beach. Hapuna beach was the perfect location for just that with its powdery white sand and translucent aqua waters. The sunset couldn't have been any more perfect as the blazing sun peacefully dropped beneath the horizon.
We took it relatively easy the next day with a quick stop at Greenwell Farm for their tour of Kona coffee. Though I'm far from a connoisseur, I was surprised at how much I enjoyed their coffee, even drinking it black. The tour though brief was very educational. Our last stop on the island was Pu'uhonua O Honaunau National  Park, a place of refuge back in the days for those fleeing from certain death or war. The many wood carved statues there were a good glimpse into Hawaiian history and a great way to wrap up the Big Island. 


Atmosphere: The Big Island is extremely unique, given its sheer size. On the Kona side which we stayed at it was dry and sunny the whole time. However just a slight ascend into the mountains and the Hilo side could show an entirely different story.

Beauty: What I found the most memorable on the island was by far Waipio Lookout and sunset on Hapuna Beach. Despite the island being the most famous for its volcano I wasn't as impressed, especially since there wasn't any active lava flowing.


Cleanliness: Everything about the island was very clean. The beaches were maintained very well despite being public beaches.  The roads were in great shape which definitely made the long drive around the island more enjoyable.

Food: My favorite food on the island came from Umekes hands down. In fact it was so good I ate there for lunch and dinner.
Not only was the staff friendly but the prices were also reasonable, unlike Da Poke Shake which I'm sure ripped me off. Their Kauai Shrimp bowl with Aioli Garlic sauce an seaweed salad was outstanding while all their ahi poke was super fresh.
In terms of malasadas, I think my vote goes to Punalu'u Bakery and in particular the taro ones. I practically ate my in 3 bite. Lastly I was a little surprised at the quality of Thai food here. Both places I went to were better than any in Philly.


People: The people here are so nice. They always greet you with a smile and finish with mahalo. I still don't believe I heard honking once.

Last comment: Though its impossible to see everything on this island I think I saw enough that I would be content if I never make it back. Perhaps that is the sad part about this trip, the fact that no matter how beautiful I probably won't be back as there is just too much to see in the world.

Scale 1-10: 9.5

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