A Taste of Reykjavik in the Winter

Today was our first day in Iceland and weather was anything but cooperative. After arriving extremely early we checked into our hotel and took a brief nap. By the time we woke and left at noon the city was already bright though not a glimpse of sunlight could be found. Walking around downtown the city was quiet and dreary, probably because it was Sunday. Most shops were closed as we walked by on our way to Hallgrimskirkja, the tallest building in Iceland. The exterior of this church is concrete, inspired by the distinctive basalt formations found throughout the country while the inside had a modern Gothic feel. Up top on the tower a complete view of the city center was visible and on a clear day one can even see the mountains across the water. On this particular day however the wind was so strong that spending more than five minutes up there became unbearable. To warm up we decided to head to Kaffitar, Reykjavik's answer to Starbucks.




So as the wind and snow blew angrily outside we sat warm and comfortable in this quaint little cafe sipping our espresso and cappuccino. By dinner time the wind somehow managed to get even louder as we made our walk towards a nearby seafood hut. Sægreifinn, otherwise known as the "The Sea Baron" came recommended by many including the NY times. Their famous lobster soup along with whale kabobs were suggested as the must tries. While both wasn't bad I was equally disappointed in them. The lobster soup was quite ordinary with the exception of the few pieces of lobsters that were tender. The whale though just as lean as I remembered was unfortunately bland even with the dipping sauce provided.




In addition the kabobs of Blue Ling and Plaice both tasted similar though the Plaice was slightly more chewy. At the end of the day the meal was definitely not worth the hefty price tag it came with! All in all for a first day in Iceland I was yet to be impressed. Day two in Reykjavik produced slightly better weather. In the morning what remained of last night's storm was making its way out of the city. As light rain drizzled outside we took a leisurely stroll through the city center. With no real pressing plans or schedules to follow we found ourselves wondering around window shopping and stopping often for coffee breaks. It wasn't the most productive of days but perhaps on a trip that's just the point. By late afternoon the clouds started to break up and slivers of light made its way through as we stood at the famous hotdog stand enjoying a much anticipated hotdog. This place is often claimed by many to be the best in all of Europe. What makes their dog stand out some say is the remoulade sauce on top, though I personally think it's the fried onion crunch on the bottom. Either way it was pretty tasty.


In the next few days weather turned in our favor as the sun came out and temperatures rose. We took this opportunity to wonder the city seeking out as many of the city's good restaurants as possible. We were quite surprised how many there actually were. For an early Valentine's dinner we went to one of the highest praised restaurants in the city, The Fish Market. There we proceeded to order the nine course tasting menu which consisted of minke whale, goose salad and Icelandic lamb just to name a few dishes. As if that wasn't enough food we also decided to try the puffin, a cute local bird that tasted like a gamier version of duck. Everything was exquisite and each component of the dish produced flavors that married perfectly with each other.











If that was our best meal of the trip I would have been completely content. However the city had much more to offer as we soon found out. Having been on a search for the BEST burger for a while we decided to make a day of it here also. For lunch we stopped by a family friendly cafe called Laundromat and had a taste of Iceland's burger. At first bite the meat was juicy and flavorful, cooked medium well served on a lightly toasted bun. The steak fries on the side with mayo added a further level of enjoyment to the meal.




All in all we were pretty impressed so imagine our delight when we found another place which was voted around the world as having the best burger. The Hamborgarbúllan otherwise known as the Burgerjoint is situated on a little street corner in an inconspicuous building. Once inside the decor was equally unpretentious and remained me of dive bars back in the states. However the delicious smell of grilled patties instantly confirmed the hype as we waited, salivating in anticipation. When we finally dug our teeth into the burger it only took that one bite to know this was truly worth the wait. In fact I think I may have just found the BEST burger ever!




Rating:
Atmosphere: This small city of 220,00 people was in many ways similar to their larger counterparts in other countries in Europe. The streets were clean, lined with colorful houses as if all were built out of Legos. On a day with good weather the air was fresh and crisp making walking around the city center quiet enjoyable.
Beauty: Though the city itself I wouldn't exactly call beautiful, the surrounding mountains and sea added an aesthetic element to it. What I did find absolutely stunning was the remaining landscape of the country and the sheer contrast it provided. In a matter of 30 miles you can go from a glacier to a black sand beach with many waterfalls in the middle.
Cleanliness: The whole time I was here I couldn't recall one piece of trash on the streets nor did I see anyone littering. What was surprising was the amount of street arts on the walls though most were more artistic than typical graffiti.
Food: The first few meals here were easily forgettable and looking back I wished we would have skipped those. Luckily we managed to find the gems of the city which completely altered my perception of food here. In fact it's almost sad that burgers and hotdogs, the so called foods of America is being made better elsewhere!
People: Polite though not overly friendly. The babies however were absolutely adorable with their fair complexion and chubby pink cheeks. Each had a pacifier in their mouth sucking away happily and starring all around with their inquisitive blue eyes.
Overall: This trip had many pleasant surprises. In the end it was pretty well balanced with its shares of adventures and rest. Even with the unexpected delay on our return home due to storm Nemo, we spent them happily in the city relaxing at various cafes during the day and experiencing the bars at night.
Scale: 1-10 = 7